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Reaming Pex-Al

Gordan
Gordan Member Posts: 891
Is there a trick to this? 3/4" PAP, using one of those resin three-pronged (1/2", 3/4", 1") reamer tools, can't even get it in there more than just a little bit, hand hurts. It's Fostapex, if it matters.

Comments

  • Paul Pollets
    Paul Pollets Member Posts: 3,661
    Viega reaming tools

    Viega makes  special tools  for reaming Fostapex. You would want to use it or you won't be able to connect the fittings properly.
  • MIke_Jonas
    MIke_Jonas Member Posts: 209
    Made of resin?

    The Viega Fostapex outside reaming tool I have is made of metal. I suppose you could use it by hand.



    The small hex on each end is intended to be chucked into a drill.
  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891
    That tool is for stripping the outside layer, right?

    I've got eight connections total to make with this, so I got compression fittings that are supposed to work with all SDR-9 PAP tubing because investing in a proprietary crimping tool set just didn't make sense. Am I up the proverbial creek? The issue here is not with the outside diameter - that looks A-OK - but with the internal diameter, which is supposed to be exactly like any other 3/4" SDR-9 tubing. If I can get the fitting in there, I'm sure I could get a proper connection...
  • MIke_Jonas
    MIke_Jonas Member Posts: 209
    Don't ream the inside

    The tool is for stripping the outer layer of aluminum. It does not "ream" or otherwise modify the inside diameter of Fostapex. I can't comment on other brands, Viega is all I use.



    If you're using compression fittings, just buy the Fostapex tool. I costs much less than any crimp ring type tool.
  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891
    So how do you get the fitting inside it?

    It doesn't fit, and I definitely don't want to force it for fear of damaging the little o-rings on the fitting.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Reaming:

    I use a tool from Ridgid that does copper and plastic. It is metal and goes from 1/8" ID/1/4" OD to 1 1/2" or so. It is metal and one side does inside and the other side does outside. I use it on PEX to get the ring to slide on easier and inside to get the fiting in easier. It also works well on copper tube. I can't give you the ridgid number now. I also use it on PE pipe to get fittings on. It works very well.
  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891
    I think I made a beginner's error...

    Thinking that dimensions on Pex-Al are anything approaching a standard. Shame on me for making that assumption, but shame on the manufacturers for not following standards. And the funny thing is... Viega seems to be the only manufacturer that DOES follow the standard (SDR-9) with their Pex-Al, whereas Uponor and all the others seem to be all over the place. Fostapex 3/4" is .671" ID, Multicor seems to be .796" ID, and Watts/Mr. Pex/Rifeng/whatever are .806" ID.



    What the @#$&!
  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891
    The spiral reamer?

    That looks like it would be fine to put a bevel on the tubing end, and round it, but my problem seems to be that the 3/4" PAP tubing I got is too small inside for the 3/4" PAP fitting I got. Phooey.
  • Paul Pollets
    Paul Pollets Member Posts: 3,661
    Only the Europeans...

    have standardized fittings and pipe diameters. We in N America do not.  It hurts the industry and creates numerous issues with connecting the various types of piping systems.  It has to do with our failure to adopt the metric system.



    All manufacturers of Pex sold in N America tend to have their own proprietary fittings and approved method of connection.  Some will work on other piping, Some will not. Some change the OD so you can't use another manufacturer's fittings.  Some manufacturers will void their warranty if the correct fitting is not used in assembly.
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,357
    Veiga needs veiga fittings

    most of the time. When doing pex I only use the manufacturers fittings. this is so there is one singer one song if there is ever a lawsuit.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,357
    Maybe you could pay a person

    with the right tool to stop by and put male adapters on the pipes. Then you can take it from there.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891
    Yep, looks like that's what it's gonna be...

    Got someone coming out to do combustion analysis. Hopefully they have the right tools.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,784
    with o-ring

    style PAP fittings sometimes all you need is to remove the sharp edge at the end of the cut tube. An umbrella reamer works, so does a pocket knife if you are careful.



    Often with PAP tube the issue could be the tube is a bit out of round from being coiled up. Some of the reamer tools also round up the tube, then the fitting slides right in.



    I lost my Viega FostaPex reamer once and I used a tubing cutter to gently score that outer layer and then a pliers to pull the coating off.



    hr
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • amuller
    amuller Member Posts: 16
    PAP compression fittings

    My reamer fits tightly in the ID of the tube.  Maybe it's intended to round the tube as necessary.  But if the reamer pilot goes in, and the ID is chamfered as it's supposed to be--make sure the tool bottoms on the end of the tube-- the fitting will go in with the O rings staying in their grooves.  If not, the rings will probably be displaced and the fitting will leak.  At least, this is my experience.



    These fittings do have a restrictive ID--less than 5/16" for "1/2" tube fittings.



    am
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