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Water Coming out From Vent
nycpa
Member Posts: 108
I've been having this problem with one of my radiators on the first floor. Every time its 25 degrees or below outside, the boiler kicks in more but after a while water pours out of the vent from the radiator in the dining room. This is the only radiator that leaks. I changed the air vent like three times but this still happens. The latest one is a Gorton. I called the company and they told me 9 out of 10 times its the pitch of the radiator. I changed the pitch by adding wood on the vent side of the legs and measured it with a level. It still leaks. I looked at my pressure cut in and its set at 3. My next step is to change the valve and i am going to ask my plumber to snake the return valve. Other than this, can you guys suggest something that I can do besides this or if something else might be causing this problem. Thank You.
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Comments
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Couple of things....
-Turn down the pressure. 1/2 pound is all you should need.... 2 at the most.
-Flush out your boiler... do this when it is not HOT.....Spitting vents happen a lot when the water in the boiler is contaminated/ dirty. From what I see on the sight glass the water is filthy.
-Check to see that the rad valve is all the way open.
-insulate your mains.
kpc0 -
water coming from vent
I tried adjusting the pressure reading but the cut in switch is stuck at 3. I cant move the switch up or down. I just tried after the boiler came on. Is this normal? Do I have to change the cut in switch?0 -
Piping is not great. they used
sewer pipe fitting on the header. The copper is bad on its own but they have all that steam squeezing into a 1 1/2" pipe. The pressuretrol needs replaced if you can not turn that screw. I am wondering is it leaking internally causing the rust marks or is something dripping on it?Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating0 -
you must turn screw on top
NOT just try to move"switch" with your fingers.1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0 -
Vent Water
Thanks for your reply. I don't really see any rust marks. But I remember a plumber before telling me that they used the wrong copper to save money. What is wrong with my pipes and what would be the correct ones? Thanks for your help.0 -
Pressure Reader
Can you let me know if I should adjust my cut in pressure to 1/2. I included a picture on the top. That's the lowest it goes. Thanks.0 -
Adjustment
Yes adjust that front tab with the screw on the top of the pressuretrol so it reads 0.5PSI, that's about as low as it will go. next remove the pressuretrols cover by loosening the screw on the front lower center and make sure the knob inside is set to 1. next double check the radiator input valve is open fully (turned max ccw)
A steam boiler should be piped with threaded steel pipe anyplace above the waterline, copper is ok below the waterline.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
Valve
The value that you refer you in the last part of your sentence, do you mean the valve that is connected to the actual radiator or another valve that is connected to the boiler. If so, where in the boiler would it be located. Thanks.0 -
floor valve at radiator
bob meant the valve near the radiator on the floor1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0 -
Automatic Feed
Thanks for all the help fellas. I just had one more question. I turned the cut in to .5 psi and the differential knob to 1. I also drained out the water. Now my automatic water feeder doesn't seem to work. Its suppose to kick in after 10 minutes. Its a VTX feeder. It was working fine as of last week. My LWCO works because the red light comes on.
Could changing the pressuretrol make my water feeder stop working? I tried to reset the feeder and changed the time to 8 minutes but that failed.
Also, I was told that the header pipes of my boiler were not the proper ones. Can you guys let me know what I need installed so I can tell my plumber. Is it worth to change since the boiler worked fine for four years and its year of manufacture is 1983.
Thanks for all your help.0 -
Coincidence
Adjusting the pressuretrol has nothing to do with the LWCO or the automatic water feeder, what ever happened was coincidental or else something got jostled along the way. It might be worth checking the electrical connections to make sure nothing is loose.
You should not have to add water to a steam boiler more often than every 2-3 weeks, if it has to be added a lot more often you have a leak somewhere. All my steam boilers have had manual feed and I've had no problems for 40+ years and two houses.
Your header should be threaded black steel but at 27 years old I don't know if I'd mess with that lest something go arwy while applying force with the big wrenches. You don't have to worry too much about the copper expansion because you only have the single boiler output pipe. One thing you should do is to insulate that header and any steam piping yo can with 1" pipe insulation, that will make a difference.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
Insulation of Header
Thanks for your help Bob. Can I insulate my headers with the fiberglass insulation they make for duct vents. They are easy to apply around the pipes and I can cut them and tape them with foil tape.
If not, I guess my other option is to buy specific 2 inch and I.5 inch tubes.
Now that I adjusted my pressuretrol, do you think I still need to call me plumber and ask him to change the Radiator valve and snake that radiators pipe. It'll probably cost me like $300 or something like that.0 -
Pipe insulation.
Any insulation should do as long as it's able to handle the temperature (215F) and it's thick enough, foam insulation won't work. Some duct insulation is pretty thin, it has to be at least an inch thick to have good results and as i said it can't be made of foam. Home Depot sells pipe insulation but it's only 1/2" thick so it's really not much good. I've seen people just wrap the pipe with 3" insulation; not pretty but that will work as long as you don't compress it too much.
I'd give the lower a pressure a few days before having the plumber start to snake anything out.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
Radiator Didn't heat
I changed me pressuretrol setting to a 1/2 today and the differential was at its usual setting of 1. My radiators failed to heat. I put the pressuretrol back to 2 because that was the last setting that worked. Could my boiler be undersized? What would cause my radiators not to heat up at 1/2 psi. In the four years that I lived in the house, its been at 3 psi. Thanks.0 -
Either the pressuretrol is bad
or your air vents aren't doing their job. Time to call a pro, since pressure is a safety issue.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Steam Specialist
My air vents are all new Gortans. I don' t think they would fail. My Radiators work now that I increased the cut in to 2psi. I live in Valley Stream, NY. Is there anyone that specializes in steam heating that I can call for service. My plumber isn't a Steam specialists but I think he should be able to change the pressuretrol if that's the problem.0 -
Use: Find a Contractor.
Two in New Hyde Park, but they seem the same: Triple Crown.0 -
Vents
It seems strange that lowering the pressure would cause problems unless your system needs to be balanced. It's possible that lessening the vent rates of some radiators would coax the steam over to the radiator that's being starved.
What vent are you using on each radiator in the heating system? I can see the one on the problem radiator is a Gorton, what model is it? Gorton makes great vents but it's a shame they don't make a variable vent.
What are you using for main vents?Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
I bank in valley stream...
I'm happy to stop by this week for a wallie to wallie look see.contact me directly.1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0 -
Air Vents
All the Air Vents are Gorton's Vapor Equalizing Valve V Number 5 no. 2709550. The previous plumber I called to install these made some of the holes bigger in the valves such as in the living room and the master bedroom but they are all the same Gorton. He seem to know a little about my Steam Boiler cause he did something a few years back to force out all the return water that sits in the return pipes. That water looked like chocolate. I am hesitant to call him because he charges $100 an hour and I had to pay for him coming late so he can smoke a cigarette. My current plumber who I trust a lot doesn't seem to be a Steam specialist, last year when I had this problem he told me I put too much water in the boiler which I knew wasn't true because I drained my boiler ever week and know how much water is in there.
I don't know what I have in my main vent because they guys that fixed the wall in the basement covered it up, so I would have to cut out the sheet rock. I remember it was larger sizes one shaped like a cone.
I really appreciate the time you guys take to respond to my problem. I guess I will have to hire someone but I don't want them to miss the problem.0 -
Question
When you lowered your cut in to .5 and the differential to 1 did the boiler cycle off on pressure? If it did not cycle off on pressure than changing the cut in and differential would not have corrected your radiators.There was an error rendering this rich post.
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Cycle Off
What do you mean did the boiler cycle off? When I changed the setting to 1/2 psi the boiler was off and it was off for a while like 3 hours. Then I left the house and when I came home 6 hours later, my thermostat was set at 67 but the temperature was 62. I turned the thermostat off, boiler off, reset the psi to 2 then turned everything on. It took like 1 hr to for the house to warm up again to 67.0 -
bad pressuretrol
It sounds like your boiler never turned on at all after you changed the settings to 1/2 on the outside and 1 on the dial inside. that indicates your pressuretrol's spring is probably shot.
i would replace that; it's not hard to do
Remove two wires (shut power to boiler off and turn circuit breaker off) and remove wires from the pressurtrol. Unscrew the pressuretrol from the pigtail. Put some teflon tape on the pigtail and screw the new pressuretrol onto the pigtail (remove knockout first so you can get the wires into the new pressuretrol). Wire up the new pressuretrol like the old one, set the limits and your done.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
perhaps you missed
my post above. I'm happy to stop over this week for a look.1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0 -
Pressuretrol
Thanks guys for all the answers.
Is there a good brand and model of a Pressuretrol that I can purchase or should I get the same honeywell I already have. I have a Weil-McCain boiler.0 -
Visit
Hi,
I sent you an email asking if you were a plumber or a steam specialist. Also, I asked for your contact. Did you check your email or messages from this site?0
This discussion has been closed.
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