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Should main vents get hot

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jp741
jp741 Member Posts: 31
in Strictly Steam
 I have a single pipe steam system with 2 main lines one feeds the first floor and the other feeds the second floor of a two story flat.  My question concerns the main vents, which I have 3 gorton #1's on each line.  Should the vents get hot to the touch?  One usually does .The other gets warm near where it branches off the main line.  The radiators seem to finally be getting even heat distribution as we had one rad. at the end of the line that never heated. If the main vent doesn't get warm does that mean there isn't enough venting?  Should I add another main vent?

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  • Vermonter_2
    Vermonter_2 Member Posts: 22
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    Yes

    Once all the air has escaped the main, steam will enter the vent and cause it to close. It will then be very hot to the touch.

    You might need more venting but I suspect that your main vent may need to be replaced. When they fail, they typically lock closed. This would of course prevent the vent from ever filling with steam.
  • jp741
    jp741 Member Posts: 31
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    should main vents get hot

    The vents are brand new?  If the vents were locked shut, wouldn't the main line stay cool as there is nowhere for the air to escape so the steam can come in?
  • Dave in QCA
    Dave in QCA Member Posts: 1,785
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    gortons close earlier than Hoffman

    I have noticed that my new Gorton #2 vents close as the steam first is arriving, befor the vent gets real hot.  But they are open and venting until this occurs.  Gortons close thermostatically and my assumption is that their closing temp is less then 212.  On the other hand, a Hoffman 75 closes on the presence steam that condenses and lifts the valve closed.  They get very HOT before closing, and you can usually hear them make a clink sound.  The Gortons just quietly ease to the closed position.
    Dave in Quad Cities, America
    Weil-McLain 680 with Riello 2-stage burner, December 2012. Firing rate=375MBH Low, 690MBH Hi.
    System = Early Dunham 2-pipe Vacuo-Vapor (inlet and outlet both at bottom of radiators) Traps are Dunham #2 rebuilt w. Barnes-Jones Cage Units, Dunham-Bush 1E, Mepco 1E, and Armstrong TS-2. All valves haveTunstall orifices sized at 8 oz.
    Current connected load EDR= 1,259 sq ft, Original system EDR = 2,100 sq ft Vaporstat, 13 oz cutout, 4 oz cutin - Temp. control Tekmar 279.
    http://grandviewdavenport.com
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
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    air goes out the rads ...

    if the main vents are stuck closed .. the air still goes out the rads .. only much slower and at a great operational cost. 
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • Vermonter_2
    Vermonter_2 Member Posts: 22
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    New doesn't mean good...

    Not saying they're bad, but I never rule out the possibility that I've been sold a defective product. I've got three differnt main vents on my system including a Gorton #2. I agree with Dave that the #2 itself doesn't get super hot, but the pipe it's attached to sure does!

    If the pipe the vent is attached to only gets warm by the time the radiator vents are snapping shut on steam I'd start to get very suspicious that the main vent is defective.

    Are your mains insulated? Pictures would help.

    Best,

    Vermonter
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