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to repipe or not to repipe

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We have a 1 pipe steam system in our home that delivers wonderful heat.  It has been pretty reliable and reasonably quiet. 

Despite that it seems to be running well, I know the near boiler piping is all wrong.   It does seem to be hard to keep the boiler clean, and I doubt it is running as efficiently as it can.  The boiler is a 7 year old EG-45 Weil Mclain that was installed by our gas company, and they simply did not follow the manufacturer's guidelines.  Can anyone help me decide if I should bite the bullet and repipe the boiler next spring, or not? 

The installer put in two 2" risers coming out of the boiler instead of one 2.5".  There are 3 primary problems that I know of:  1) the header is 2" instead of the required 2.5" minimum; 2) the two risers coming out of the header are between the two risers coming out of the boiler, and 3) the first 24" of the risers laving the header are copper (the header and the piping from the boilerto it are all steel).

2 pics are attached.  Everything is insulated very well, but I think you can get the jist of things.

Hope you all can help.  At least we are nice and warm.

pq

Comments

  • stembo
    stembo Member Posts: 8
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    pics of the piping

    pics attached
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    edited December 2010
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    the piping ...

    *EDIT* whoops .. he did break a rule .. he has the steam takeoffs to the mains

    BETWEEN the 2 boiler risers .. rather than between the risers and

    equalizer .. hmmmm.



    doesn't look awful .. there are no major rules broken .. you are actually at an ADVANTAGE to have 2 risers of 2" rather than 1riser of 2.5" .. the only thing I would have changed as you said .. is upsizing the header .. chances are they only had a 2" threading machine on their truck and couldn't deal with 2.5" threading.



    personally, but I could be wrong, I would not touch the piping you have shown. i think this is a case where he went slightly beyond manufacturer instructions in parts (2-risers) and slightly below (2" header) in parts .. therefore you are equalled out ..



    what do you mean when you say "can't keep the boiler clean" .. water? soot?
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,478
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    I agree

    I think JPF is right on the money. If the system performs well the better part of valor might be to let sleeping dogs lie. Whenever you take something like this apart there is always the chance you might crack something and that could cost you a new boiler.



    My 14 year old Burnham is certainly not piped optimally but given the danger of breaking something that works well and knowing the cost might never be recovered in it's lifetime, I'll let that boiler alone. When the time comes, I'll find an installer that knows what he is doing and do it up right.



    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • stembo
    stembo Member Posts: 8
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    dirty boiler

    by dirty I meant the water.  Sometimes, it seems like mud gets quite high in the boiler and I have suspected that dirty condensate drops into the top instead of going down the equalizer. I really don't know, but the glass is rarely clean and I probably drain the water a little more than I should.
  • Polycarp
    Polycarp Member Posts: 135
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    If you do repipe

    then you shouldn't have to bite the bullet.  The Gas Co installed it wrong, they should pay for the repipe.



    But... if it is working, I'd agree that maybe you should just leave it.  The only thing you might do is see if you can find out how your fuel consumption compares to similar houses.  It might be heating the house and keeping the noise down all while it jettisons money out the chimney.  But if operations and costs are reasonable, then just let it be.
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,322
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    What pipe is under the insulation?

    Is it copper or iron? It should be iron. using 2- 2" is acceptable as opposed to 1- 2 1/2" . The risers between the risers and the height of the left riser tying in is an issue. After 7 years they will not repipe the boiler for free. The dirt may be from the wet return. that should be insulated as well.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
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    Chris

    Looks like this one has 2
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