Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Boiler Shuts Off, NEED HELP!!

I'm a new home owner with a single pipe system. My home has 8 radiators. For the second time this winter, my boiler shuts down and won't come back on. I had a service guy take a look and all he did was press the reset button and the system came back on. The second time the system shut down, i got smart and pressed the reset button myself. Anyways, it will run for a minute then shut off again. I feel a ton of heat coming out of the system instead of going up the vent. I've checked the vent and there is no clog and when I put my hand in the vent area (when the system is off), I feel cold air (so I know there is not blockage). All of my radiators are open and the valves are open. I can't figure out why my system seems to not vent properly and shuts down. PLEASE HELP!!! VERY FRUSTRATED!!

Comments

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,397
    edited December 2010
    If it's oil-fired

    I'll bet the heat exchanger is plugged, and you're getting some hot flue gas leaking out from around the inspection door. That could explain why you feel heat in the front of the boiler when the flue pipe is cold, also why the flame can't sustain itself.



    You need to call a pro NOW. Try the Find a Contractor page of this site. You basically have no heat, and a boiler that is not safe to operate. Many of us will still come out at night for this kind of thing.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • add
    add Member Posts: 94
    sounds like

    you have a problem with your burner,do you have oil?
  • Bailey
    Bailey Member Posts: 7
    Oh no!

    Yes, that seems like what is happening. This was happening before (when I closed a radiator in a room that had more the one). When I opened up the radiator again, the system came on and it was venting properly. Is there anything I can do or do I need to call a tech?
  • Bailey
    Bailey Member Posts: 7
    Gas

    It's a gas system.
  • Bailey
    Bailey Member Posts: 7
    Cost

    How much does having a plugged secondary heat exchanger cost?
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,397
    Call a pro

    need to find out what's going on here.



    Where is the "reset button" located? On the burner? One of the controls?
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Bailey
    Bailey Member Posts: 7
    reset button

    the reset is located right below the venting area.
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    if you can...

    take a picture of the reset button and thee device it is on...or at least describe where it is located.
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    co spill switch?

    if it is a manual reset CO spill switch this may well be dangerous. call a tech.
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,397
    I'll second that

    the switch is probably responding to a blocked chimney. The hot flue gases are coming out of the draft hood. Not safe.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Bailey
    Bailey Member Posts: 7
    reset button picture

    Here is a pic of the reset button.
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,397
    Whatever it takes

    to make it run safely. 
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Bailey
    Bailey Member Posts: 7
    yes

    I will definitely call a tech. I did check the chimney. There is no clog there.
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    it's probably...

    cheaper than a hotel or a funeral.
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • Johnny13
    Johnny13 Member Posts: 45
    I wish you all sorts of good luck.

    I would listen to those guys. I had to go without heat a couple nights last winter, so I feel for you. I hope you have good news soon.
  • Oak Park Electric
    Oak Park Electric Member Posts: 54
    It may be upside down, but...

    It is still what is called the "blocked vent switch".  It is there to shut the unit off when the hot flue gas spills out of the draft hood instead of going up the chimney.  This is a serious carbon monoxide issue,  that ton of heat you feel is the combustion gas coming out into the room.  The switch senses this, and opens, as it should.  Whatever you do, don't defeat that switch, or allow anyone else to do it.  It is there to save your life.  The chimney may not be physically plugged, but the cold air at the vent is a good clue.  This could be a case of cold slugging or some kind of negative pressure downdraft caused by something like an exhaust fan or clothes dryer that removes air from the building .  Either way, the hot flue gas cannot establish the natural draft in the chimney, and instead it comes out of the draft hood.  If the last service guy just reset the switch and left, without testing the draft ( with a real draft gauge ) or staying around for awhile to monitor the boiler while it was operating, don't call him back.  You need somebody who understands the principles of venting and safety controls.  Get a monoxide detector if you don't already have one, and have a knowledgeable pro check out that system. It is definitely not safe the way it is.  
This discussion has been closed.