Replace B&G 100 with Taco

bobk

I'm a real newby, so I'm hoping you'll be gentle with me. I've been in a new house for about a year and a half, and the second of my three B&G series 100 circulators has jammed up. (Fuel oil boiler, hot water baseboard heat.) The last time my father helped me replace the bearing bracket assembly -- now I'm thinking I'll replace this one with a Taco 007. I see in this forum it's a no-brainer, but I"m fairly paranoid. What kind of trouble can I get into? Is it really un-bolt the B&G and bolt in the Taco? Does the Taco come with the gaskets I need? Is there any problem running the Taco with the other two B&Gs in the system? I'd be grateful for any advice, however basic. If it can be screwed up, I can do it. Many thanks.

billtwocase

go for it

worst part of the job could be purging the system. There was 2 size flanges for B&G 100's, but chances are you have the right ones. They were smaller flanges early on

bobk

ok

Last time we didn't have to purge at all. My Dad was fairly amazed. There is a Taco air scoop and a conventional expansion tank, which appears to be working well even though it's installed backwards.



I have another problem: I think one of the Flo valves isn't working. The pipe behind it is always hot, whereas the others are kinda warmish when the circulator isn't running. Is it possible that I could clean this out and get it working, or do you think I'll have to replace it?



I used to ask Dad about these things, but we lost him back in July. He worked on heating systems for close to 40 years -- guess I should have taken more notes.

Anyway, thanks for your help.

Joe Mattiello

it is that easy, you have a friend

Replacing the B & G 100 series with the 007 is a good idea.  The taco 0010 does have a closer performance curve to the B & G 100, or taco 110 pump, but the 007 should suffice.  Changing the pump is easy to do, especially easy if you have isolation flanges/valves on each side of the pump.  If you do not have a way of isolating the pump you will have to drain the system, or at least partially depending on the system dynamics. After successfully changing the pump you will have to purge the system of any air that entered while the system was open to atmosphere.  You can use the makeup valve and a hose bib for purging; it’s not the difficult, but if you need help give me a call and I'll help you. In addition, i attached a tutorial on air elimination I thought you would find helpful.   

Andyk

Grundfos Pump

I have nothing against Taco but I would look at the Grundfos UPS1558FC, it's about the same price as the Taco and it will give you the option of three speeds to match your load and head loss.

heatboy

Well, if we are going there.........

..........Taco has a couple of three speeds, also.  The 0010 3 speed would be the exact match for a B&G 100. 

Depending on the type of system and where the pump is in relation to PONPC, the 007 does have a steeper curve than the 100 at lower GPMs and I have seen noise issues over the years when just swapping a 007 for the 100.

bobk

Thanks

for all the helpful advice. I already ordered a 007 from Pex Supply, so I guess I'm committed. I'm going to wait until I get my new woodstove installed before I do this, just in case my luck runs true to form. I will have to drain the system, but last time we didn't have to purge at all. Maybe we just got lucky, but all the pipes are hot and there's no noise, so I guess it's ok.

By the way, can I close the valve to my conventional expansion tank, so I don't have to drain it? I read somewhere that if you can avoid draining the tank it's a good thing.

Thanks again for your help. This forum is really a great resource. Oh, if you don't have anything better to do, I put some pictures up on photobucket. If you see anything desperately bad, please let me know. http://s1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc362/kirbybo/Fuel%20oil%20furnace/