Varivalve vents?

noremac

Hello:

I have a couple radiators that whistle loudly. I live in a three-storey condominium building, so although I've read Dan's article on this, I don't have a lot of control over how well balanced or vented the whole system is. I can only change my own steam vents. I am currently on my second set of Maid-O-Mist Jacobus vents, so I'm not going to buy them again.



I've checked out a couple brands of valves online, and it seems that Varivalve vents have the largest flowthrough rates and the best variable adjustments. This makes me think that by using these valves I could adjust them so that the whistling stops. <a href="http://www.heat-timer.com/En/ProductDetail.aspx?ID=36">http://www.heat-timer.com/En/ProductDetail.aspx?ID=36</a>



Has anyone used them? Would you recommend them? And does anyone know where I could buy them in Canada?

Sil

I have one of these on one rad

The work as advertised, and would be a good choice for your fact pattern.



A plumbing supply place (not a box box home center) should have them. If not buy it online:

http://www.pexsupply.com/Varivalve-59000-b?gclid=CJjpyKKOvKUCFcbc4AodiH6pYw

nicholas bonham-carter

short-lived vents

those vents may have been made non-functional by over-pressure.

you could put a good low pressure gauge [gaugestore.com-0-3 psi] on your radiator as well as the new vent. then you could see if that was the problem. the pressure controller on the boiler may be allowing the pressure to go too high.--nbc

BobC

Wet steam

AS NBC said make sure the boiler pressure isn't over 3PSI. Also i don't think the Varivalves have a float in them so they will not close if water gets into them. If the steam is nice and dry that shouldn't be a problem, but if you have wet steam it maybe a concern.



Can you blow through those bad vents? If not, try boiling them in white vinegar for a half hour to see if lime is blocking them. thats can be a quick and cheap fix.



Bob

crash2009

Danfoss TRV?

I wonder if a TRV could help this situation.  The Danfoss 1PS can handle 15 psi.  Maybe it would hold back the pressure so your vents would last longer.  Contact them and ask if they have anything for your exact problem.



E-mail Address: solutions@danfoss.com

noremac

thanks

It's good to know that the Varivalves' don't have floats. I have dry steam right now, but it will be something to keep an eye on.

noremac

thanks!

I appreciate know they worked for you.

Charlie from wmass

The only thing I use varivalves for

is weighing down my brass scrap barrel. I use vent rite #1 valves. Vari valves are aggressive venting and often spit and sputter on systems that are out of wack other wise. I don't like them and I do not have good results on the systems I find them on. I am also often called in on systems that are experiencing many problems to start with. Gortons are another good choice for venting but need to be chosen by size rather than adjusted to suit your needs.

mchema

HOT HOT HOT

Varivalve vent VERY FAST and HOT! I put them on a few of my rads last season upstairs and lets just say even with the vent closed it was so very hot upstairs. Plus they spit water on rads I never had a problem spitting water. It was not a great choice for my system.  I just got some Gortons 5... Those worked much better and balanced the system more so. 

Danny Scully

TRV

I have to agree with crash on this one, it sounds like a perfect scenario for a TRV. I have used Danfoss with great success, definitely something you should look into.

brian_44

I use the Varivalve vents...

I have some Varivalve vents in my home, however one place I do NOT have them is in the upstairs bedrooms as I like to delay the upstairs a bit as it gets HOT up there. I am going to place TRV's in those radiators to control the heat better. Varivalves are excellent for fast venting and can really help in making heat distribution nice & even in a home.



In your case, they would certainly cure the "hissing". I used to have a bathroom radiator that hissed like crazy, but not with the Varivalve vent. I will say, however, if the section of your condo gets super warm, I'd opt for the thermostatic valve instead.

noremac

thanks

Can you send me a link to info about the PS1? I can't find it online.



I'm not sure I like this solution, though. TRVs are for controlling temperature, and temperature isn't the problem for me. I just need a vent that doesn't hiss.

noremac

vent rite

Do you have a link to more information on Vent Rite vents? They seem hard to find. Why are they better than Varivalves?



I don't like the idea of the Gorton vents. I don't know what size I needs, so I'm looking specifically for an adjustable vent.

crash2009

Vent-rite

supplier.  Very expensive at this place.  Nice vent though, I have a couple installed here.  One on the too cold radiator and one on the too hot.  Look into the Danfoss TRV, It is like having your own thermostat.



http://www.partsguy.com/cgi-bin/PartsGuy/1.html

crash2009

Danfoss RA2000 One Pipe Steam "1PS"

It says in the literature (paragraph 2) that its designed to provide accurate temperature control and quiet operation.  I have 2 that were installed here for the temperature control reason, and they do a good job with that. 

They do not claim to be able to compensate for you being unable to make adjustments to the system to correct the problem you experience. 

My suggestion to you is to contact Danfoss and ask if their valve will eliminate or reduce the whistling that you have. 



http://na.heating.danfoss.com/PCMPDF/Instructions%20RA2000%201PS.pdf

rcrit

danfoss

Speaking of Danfoss TRVs I'm confused what parts I need to pick up for one.



I'm assuming you need the main body (013G0140) and a vent but do you also need an operator (like 013G8250)?



Altogether those 3 parts are around $100.



What I was thinking is using the Danfoss with a Varivalve vent wide open. This way there is no worry about air blocking the way and the Danfoss keeps the room from overheating. This would represent a fairly large investment though.

crash2009

TRV

I ordered from Pex Supply.  The valve came with the operator seen in the photo, in the link below.  I also ordered a straight pattern radiator vent.  I didn't know at the time that you can use 2 street elbows and your original angle vent if you choose to.  That could save you some money.  Since then I have also seen the Honeywell version that includes the rad vent, for about the same price as the Danfoss valve alone.  Also I was told to "just vent the radiator normally"  as if it had no TRV.



http://www.pexsupply.com/Danfoss-013G0140-Thermostatic-Rad-Valve-w-Vac-Breaker-1-Pipe-Steam-5551000-p

mel rowe

? for Crash

Does the operator you mentioned on the Danfoss TRV actually screw on and allow you to therefore adjust the set point of the TRV?  I know it it would not be quite the same as having the actual Danfoss controller with the markings and everything, but if it allows manual control, then that would be much less expensive.

crash2009

Danfoss TRV

The controller that it came with was allready installed on the TRV.  The only testing I did was with my lungs.  I just blew into it and turned the dial until it closed the valve.  That gives me 98.6 F right?  Then I turned it down a bit more to guesstimate 70F.  The rad its on is too big for the room.  When the 8 section Rococo filled all the way we had to open a window.  Now with the TRV it only fills 3 sections to maintain 70 F, and the tenant doesn't have to open the window.  When it gets colder the TRV will allow more steam in to maintain 70 F.  That rad was vented normally with a Gorton D, just in case we want to sleep with one of the walls removed.