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water level in boiler too high

wiley
wiley Member Posts: 16
Hi all-



I was hoping to get some insight regarding a problem with my oil fired 1 pipe steam system.



I had to replace the union between my dry and wet return. I I drained my boiler and flushed out the lwc. Both where dirty but nothing really unusual. I replaced my wet return and the union the the boiler and union to the dry return.



I refilled the boiler to the proper level and ran the system without issue. Everything seemed fine.



The following morning the boiler kicked in and about 15 minutes later my rads and pipes were pretty crazy with bangs(my system is usually very quiet). Checking the boiler I noted that it had essentially flooded. (sight glass completely full)



So I drained the boiler, the lwc kicked in when it was supposed to and I got the water level correct - fired up the boiler and the system ran quiet - but again this am I checked the sight glass and it was completely full again.



I've not changed the pitch of my returns at all -  any thoughts what might be going on here?



Thanks-

Comments

  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,314
    questions for you first

    do you have a tankless? Do you have a manual feed valve? Are you sure the returns are not clogged?
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • wiley
    wiley Member Posts: 16
    water level in boiler too high

    Thanks-



    My boiler uses a coil for hot water and I do have an automatic water feeder.



    Regarding the returns - everything was fine - and I replaced the wet return just as a preventative measure as I was replacing the union - My first thought is that it was a slow return problem - but so little has changed I'd be surprised if it was.
  • Ron65
    Ron65 Member Posts: 1
    Steam vent leaks

    I have 1600 sq, ft house with with 8 steam radiators. The boiler is a 4years old Burnham about 87,000 btu. I need to make the system tight so that it does not consume a lot of water. The boiler does not have an automatic feed water regulater. I used to have to add water once in 4 to 5 weeks. Now water has to be added every 8 to 10 days. The house is unattended for months at a time and the water is closed at the curb because of fear of freezing. Which manufacturer of vents used on the radiators is the best quality with minimal steam loss and how do you determine the size oriface needed ? also what type of packing should I use on radiator inlet valve ?



                                                                                                     Thank You

                                                                                                      Ron
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    i would suggest...

    that you start your own topic .. "Add New Thread" from this page:

    http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-category/93/Strictly-Steam
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    when running or not running?

    is the level too high only when the boiler is running? or also when not running?



    how many feet of wet return did you replace?



    could it be that water was "hiding" and now with the new free flowing return that water is coming back?



    did you change the pitch of any pipes?



    are you sure both sight glass valves are fully open? and no blockages from sight glass into the boiler (you will need to take the glass out and blow into the upper and lower valve ports) I guess that when you drain the boiler and the level goes down in sight glass, that you have a properly working sight glass, so this paragraph may be moot.



    FYI, I don't think that auto feed necessarily produces "proper normal water line" just minimum safe water line .. but double check that in your boiler manual.



    pictures? especially of your LWCO in relation to the Normal Water Line. perhaps the old return was holding water back and it would have filled high eventually but very very slowly and therefore your normal water level is out of whack.
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • wiley
    wiley Member Posts: 16
    response to your questions

    First, thanks everyone to your thoughts on this issue



    is the level too high only when the boiler is running? or also when not running?

    The water seems fine when running - after it shuts down the site glass slowly fills - its fine after it shuts down, the next morning it is full.







    how many feet of wet return did you replace?

    about 10'







    could it be that water was "hiding" and now with the new free flowing return that water is coming back?

    ? I doubt it - but maybe - my system is simple and small - 6 rads 1 floor - not sure there is a lot of place to hide







    did you change the pitch of any pipes?

    I was pretty conscious of this - if there was any change it was extremely minor - the dry return drops about 7 -8 inches over 35' -







    are you sure both sight glass valves are fully open? and no blockages

    from sight glass into the boiler (you will need to take the glass out

    and blow into the upper and lower valve ports) I guess that when you

    drain the boiler and the level goes down in sight glass, that you have a

    properly working sight glass, so this paragraph may be moot.

    yeah moot







    FYI, I don't think that auto feed necessarily produces "proper normal

    water line" just minimum safe water line .. but double check that in

    your boiler manual.

    the boiler is from the 40's! I wish I had a manual:)







    pictures? especially of your LWCO in relation to the Normal Water Line.

    perhaps the old return was holding water back and it would have filled

    high eventually but very very slowly and therefore your normal water

    level is out of whack.







    I'll take a few - perhaps a candidate for the ugly system contest -



    the lwc cut in when the water gets to the low point - is it possible that the float is getting hung up on the top end ? - not telling the feed to stop?
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    seems very strange .. where

    are you located?



    pictures even more desired now. old boilers (unless its a little Pebco) usually have more water than necessary so such large waterline fluctuations are strange.



    you didn't by any chance take out a check valve when you replaced your return? and what does your hartford loop look like?
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • wiley
    wiley Member Posts: 16
    Response and pics

    Hi - I'm also in Queens, on the Ridgewood side.



    So here are some pics of my ancient beaut. This was a small factory that I am converting to a residential. The white ties on the glass sight are there for me to keep track of the water changes.



    With the boiler shut down, I discovered that it picked up about 1/4 of water in the glass per hour.



    I shut of the water supply and the water level is fine and has remained constant. I'm assuming, my automatic water feed, doesn't works - looks like I'll be doing it manually. The LWC works



    My pressurtrol is set at 2 but my boiler typically shuts down when it hits 4 on the gauge - not sure how accurate that is.



    If you have any thoughts please share them :)
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    edited November 2010
    i'd love to stop by...

    give everything an up close and personal look and let you know my thoughts. drop me a line directly if you're so inclined. i have time today, but the rest of the week is shot.

    http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum/contact/5499218/jpf321
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • wiley
    wiley Member Posts: 16
    thanks

    I'll be in touch



    3
  • missing water

    is this 1-pipe or 2-pipe? hope we can help your situation. are you sure you do not have a leak in the boiler? if your water consumption has gone up, there must be a reason. start a new thread and we will tell you what to look for.--nbc
  • wiley
    wiley Member Posts: 16
    edited November 2010
    missing water

    Hey Nick-



    1 pipe system



    No leak - I think the water level was getting high because the automatic feed stopped working............as a result I shut the water supply off to the boiler and the water level has remained constant. So now I have to manually feed the boiler - will just have to keep an eye on the level until I decide to replace the water feed........... I think that is what the problem is but am open to suggestions/thoughts
This discussion has been closed.