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How do you test Pressuretrol

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acl10
acl10 Member Posts: 349
I have a Honywell Pressuretroll

loks like this one

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-PA404A1033-Pressuretrol-circuit-pressure/dp/B0006UPPMM">http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-PA404A1033-Pressuretrol-circuit-pressure/dp/B0006UPPMM</a>



How do I test it to see if it works.

Does this pressuretroll have a mercury switch?

Comments

  • acl10
    acl10 Member Posts: 349
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    Also the pigtail comes out of the 67 is that correct?

    Also the pigtail comes out of the top of the MM 67 LWCO is that correct?
  • TomM
    TomM Posts: 233
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    need gauge

    Its a switch that 'makes' at your setpoint, and 'breaks' at your setpoint plus 1.5 psi.

    -

    you would need an oz/sq ft pressure gauge, in-line with the pressuretrol, to see if it was working correctly.  That way, you would not have to use a voltmeter to see if it was working correctly.  You should have a low pressure gauge anyway.  Those factory gauges are crap.  Mine reads 20 psi when the boiler is off!

    -

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • TomM
    TomM Posts: 233
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    diaphram

    no, the switch is actuated by a diaphram and lever that makes or breaks the switch.

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    if you have the pa404a1025, i think that one is subtractive, not additive as the pa404a1033 is.  the 1025 would break at your setpoint, and make at your setpoint minus 1.5psi.  Not 100% sure if the 1025 is subtractive though, but you get the idea.

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,479
    edited November 2010
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    Pressuretrol test

    In the picture that shows the inside of the pressuretrol, the brown object is a microswitch. The two brass screws are the contacts of that switch, Normally the contacts of this switch are closed until pressure builds enough to trip it off. With the boiler power switched off at the circuit breaker panel, you should measure zero ohms across those two brass screws. You can force that silver arm up and down (1/16 to 1/8") to mimic the action of the internal bellows, when you do you will hear a small click and the reading should go up to many thousands of ohms. Move it the opposite way and the reading should go back to zero ohms.



    All that does is tell you that the switch works it does not tell you if the pressure bellows is good or if the pigtail is clear.



    With the power back on you can manipulate the silver lever and should be able to turn the burner off and on, assuming the thermostat is calling for heat. Just be careful so you don't get a shock, those screws are carrying 120v.



    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • acl10
    acl10 Member Posts: 349
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    Why should it face the opposite way from the pigtail?

    Why should it face the opposite way from the pigtail? I changed it from the picture but I would like to know why as it says in Heating Help book
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,322
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    The direction matters less now.

    The older(better models) used a vial with mercury in it so the pressuretrol needed to be level to work accurately. With the old style as the pigtail expanded and contracted if it was install as yours is the pressuretrol would be tilted off level.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
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    not important unless mercury...

    the book should also say that pigtail try to straighten out when heated .. if you have a mercury p-trol and the pigtail tries to "straighten out" left to right... you will have a false trip due to the mercury floating left or right .. the would be solved by changing orientation to a front/back movement instead .. however, as I said, this only matters if you have mercury switch .. otherwise, makes no difference at all. 
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
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    I winged it

    Looks like I did it the hard way
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
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    Charlie

    If a guy wanted to,,,Could you mount the p-trol on the wall of the boiler room and run the wires and some copper tubing from the pigtail up to it? 
  • acl10
    acl10 Member Posts: 349
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    Is it on right connected to the LWCO 67?

    Is it on right connected to the LWCO 67?
This discussion has been closed.