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Which Peerless boiler

highway Member Posts: 7
Hello all. Replacing a 150k  btu oil fired boiler in a 2200 sq ft ranch with baseboard. What is the difference between the Peerless WBV/WV and the EC/ECT. I know the EC/ECT holds more water but that's all. Could the pros please share your thoughts on the boiler I should consider. Thanks....


  • Ron Jr._3
    Ron Jr._3 Member Posts: 603
    edited November 2010

    The EC is more a steam boiler that can do hot water also .

    The WBV is more of a hot water boiler that can do steam too ( steam is a slightly different block though )  ....... Smaller in size than the EC , holds less water for the same btus . Slightly higher AFUE with the WBV for hot water .

    Either one would be a good choice , but I'd go with the WBV for baseboard heat . I have one in my home and it works great .

    Did you do a heatloss for your home ? 150,000 sounds real high for a house your size . My home is a little smaller than yours and the heatloss came to a tad over 50,000 , and mine leaks heat like a sieve .
  • highway
    highway Member Posts: 7

    Thanks for the reply Ron. At least I have a better understanding now.  I am just replacing the boiler with one that is the same btu rating. The Peerless lets you choose 3 different firing rates, so I can fire as low as 117 btu.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Peerless Boiler:

    You still should do a heat loss calculation.

    I think you may want to use the next size smaller boiler and have it run in the middle of the range. 117MBH seems rather high.

    But whatever,
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,431
    Boiler rating

    I heat by steam but I might be able to save you some money.

    My 1947 Delco boiler went belly up in 1996, nothing lasts any more! I had someone come in and he took one look at it, never looked at the radiators to figure out the true load, and installed a 5 section Burnham V75 steam boiler (good for FHW as well). I've lived with that boiler for 14-1/2 years and it has been as reliable as the day is long.

    The problem is it is rated at three times my connected load. I get steam up in no time and I'm sure I could heat the house at -40 without a problem (it never gets much below zero in Boston). the result is I'm burning more fuel than I should and over the years it adds up. It's not worth replacing it just for the fuel savings but I wished I knew enough back then to make the installer do a heat loss calculation. I'm sure I've bought enough extra oil to buy a new one by now but I can't bring myself to replace a good working boiler.

    Do a heat loss calculation or get someone to do it for you.

    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
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