Pressure setting 2 stage questions?

clammy

Well we are still finishing up soem piping on a peerless LC steamer and i am sitting down and pondering my control set up which i have a good handle on ,we give be using a vaporstat to control the hi and low fire whih will be wired in two the burners hi low wiring and upon futher thinking i am wondering how much higher should i be setting the cut out on my main safety vaporstat to pervent the burner from shutdown and then re statring after the pressure drops down (hate burner short cycling) Would 2 oz be enough to prevent the burner from shut down over my setting on the vaporstat controlling the hi low firing or do you fiqure it will take a little watch and see real world fine tuning thanks for any input peace and good luck clammy

nicholas bonham-carter

peerless burner control

are there two vaporstats, plus one safety pressuretrol  on this burner control?

i always believe that short-cycling on a properly sized steam boiler, operating at proper low pressures is caused by inadequate main venting more than any other factor. at 2 oz, my peerless 211 a has let all the air out of the mains with no short-cycling. on the 6 dry returns feeding from 55 radiators, there are 4 gorton #2's on each-plenty of venting!

you will probably have to fine tune it, before it operates to your satisfaction.--nbc

clammy

set up

There will be one manual reset pressuretrol and one operating vaporstat on the control end with a float lwco and a manual reset probe lwco ,the burner hi low will be controlled by another vaporstat,this  is a install that i am helping some other contractor with so i did not do the pricing ,i did give him a so so idea on the total price and had advised him to get all his pricing together before setting his price with the building owner i know when all is said and done he should have gotten more then he bid,the owner kinda of baited him being he played stupid that the boiler was shot and i later found that about a dozen plumbers had bid this job 2 years ago and when removing the old boiler it was clear that it had been leaking for a while with 2 section way in the middle where cracked and one end setion on each side had holes in them that where like 2.5 long by about 1 inch wide probalby from alot of make up water from the auto feeder which a reliable source stated was installed to over come tenants calls of no heat due to all the steam escaping up the chimmey and boiler shuting off on low water  .the returns on the system also are in need of some updating being some one had replaced the 2.5 returns with 2 inch copper which is border line for the amount of condensate that should be retruning from the ends of the mains and all the drips from what i have calculated  ,alot of knuckleheading has happened to this 85 year old system 2 pipe with gravity returns with all returns dripped into  the wet returns and all returning by gravity .I personally would have 2 vaporstats on the main ontrol set up but trying to talk these guys into that will be a hard talk being the boiler we replaced just had a single pa404 and no secondary lwco and yes it was inspected and passed .it was extremely unbelieveable that the other boiler lasted like 25 or 30 years with no swing joints in the header piped in steel and extremely badly for what it was major undersized equilizer for  the systems btus loads of bad stuff whih explains the 30 years of terrible operation of the system ,with this boiler update and proper near boiler piping and bring the water line back up to original design height there should be more reliable operation and steam distribution thansk for the info NBC peace and good luck clammy