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Boiler Question

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Comments

  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,505
    New Ptrol

    I bought mine from Amazon a few years back nd it looks like they still have it.



    http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-PA404A1033-Pressuretrol-circuit-pressure/dp/B0006UPPMM



    This is the PA404 1033 which I believe is the replacement for the older 1009. It breaks the circuit on pressure rise.



    If I'm wrong somebody will jump in and correct me. I think the 1023 switch makes on pressure rise which will not work in your application.
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • Breakthecycle2
    Breakthecycle2 Member Posts: 34
    edited November 2010
    OK guys

    Please be patient with me! lol. I did also find that one on Ebay. Do you guys recommend using the 1009 or getting the newer one? Also, the plumber wants to charge us way too much money to install it. Is there anything about installing this that I couldnt do?
  • crash2009
    crash2009 Member Posts: 1,484
    Installing

    is pretty straightforward.  SHUT OFF THE POWER AT THE MAIN ELECTRICAL AND LET THE BOILER COOL A BIT.  Its just 2 screws holding the wires, and remove it from the pigtail.  Setting it up and adjusting it so it will work like its supposed to is where hiring a professional might be worth it.
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    edited November 2010
    no pricing discussion...

    dans policy is no mention of pricing .. thanks
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    perhaps...

    perhaps this brochure is useful ..

    http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/63-0000s/63-9727.pdf
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • David Nadle
    David Nadle Member Posts: 624
    Pressure relief valve

    Did they check/replace the pressure relief valve?
  • Breakthecycle2
    Breakthecycle2 Member Posts: 34
    Actually

    I had done that the night before in hopes it would be a quick fix.
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,505
    edited November 2010
    Replacing Ptrol

    If a new pressure relief valve has popped then you have a real safety issue. Seems the pressuretrol is bad or it's not seeing the boiler pressure, either way you have a problem that should be addressed before operating the boiler again.



    I would install a new siphon pigtail (brass) at the same time as the pressuretrol. Don't worry about the auxiliary gauge until you address the safety issue. make sure the tee, elbow and pipe pipple are clear before putting everything back together.



    The time for quibbling over costs is over unless your willing to live without heat for 4-7 days while you wait for a part to be shipped in..
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    Safety items are a job for a pro.

    I concur with BobC. Let a pro do this one. At this time of the year I don't imagine you really have time to mess about with delays.  Also if the new pressuretrol is bad (and it happens) the installer has to replace it.

    You might want to install a 1/4 tee with a plug below the new pressuretrol so you could add a supplemental gauge at later time.

    - Rod
  • Breakthecycle2
    Breakthecycle2 Member Posts: 34
    I agree

    The pro is coming out first thing tomorrow. Thanks for all your help everyone...once again.
  • Breakthecycle2
    Breakthecycle2 Member Posts: 34
    REal problem guys

    Steam Pro was here, replaced the pressuretrol, gauge and cleaned pigtail. Hasn't done it until now. Now what?
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    Shut it Down!

    What's the pressure on the gauge? I'd just call the pro back. It's now his problem.

     He needs to check the wiring. Something is wrong on the safety circuit. This is the wire which supplies power to one of shut off switches on the burner. The Pressuretrol and Low Water Cut OFF (and any other safety switches) are wired in series on this circuit so that if any one of them opens, the power stop flowing to the burner and the burner stops. Normally since the pressuretrol is the one that does all the work, constantly opening and closing, it is the switch most likely top fail. While it is possible to have a bad replacement pressuretrol, one must suspect that something else is causing the problem. If the pressuretrol is shutting off on pressure there should be no power continuing down the line past the pressuretrol.  If that line has no power then there maybe something wrong in the burner shut off on the burner itself.

    The pro should know how to trouble shoot this and check it out. Since the pressuretrol is the normal thing to go bad he may have just replaced that and thought things were back on line.This would be the normal assumption. It may be an intermittent problem and those are always the hardest to find.

    Shut the system down until you can get the pro out to look at it. It is now operating with out the safety controls and that is very dangerous!

    - Rod
  • Breakthecycle2
    Breakthecycle2 Member Posts: 34
    Fixed

    It seems that it is now fixed and the cause of all this seems to have been a clogged pigtail. I thought I had cleaned it well and did, but the pro. said it could have gotten stuff blown back into it. He cleaned it and although I haven't used the heat much (because it's been warm here) I am confident it is now fixed. He did say that I should probably add an additional release valve or vent near the boiler because there isn't one and I am getting a bit of banging in the pipes. The pro that came this time, was yet another new one from the company. He seems like he really knew what he was talking about and knows of this forum and who Dan is.
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    glad to hear it ..

    and if anyone wants to "see" who dan is .. I found him in some videos talking to the founder of SlantFin.. http://www.youtube.com/user/slantfincorp#p/u/0/Nukw7_qh_28
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
  • Mendoza
    Mendoza Member Posts: 2
    Water Keeps coming out The heaters around my house and boiler water gauge in over filled.

    GAS FIRED STEAM BOILERS

    MODEL

    PEG-C Series

    The heaters radiators value around my house keep on leaking a lot of water. So I turn of the boiler hoping it will stop and I also remove the water from the boiler. But the water gauge is over filled and is not losing any water. Every time the boiler is on water comes out from the heaters and the water gauge remains the same overfilled. What am to do?
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    Excess Water in the Boiler.

    Hi- You should probably call a heating pro as he could quickly find the problem and get your steam system running properly again. As to what causes the excess water in the boiler it could be several things. If you have an automatic water feeder that could be leaking or adding water to you boiler due to problems with condensate return. If you have a hot water coil (heat exchanger) in your boiler to make hot water for the house, that could have developed a pin hole leak and is leaking water into the boiler. If the boiler is flooding it can fill the pipes and over flow into the house so I would get some help quickly.

    - Rod
  • Mendoza
    Mendoza Member Posts: 2
    How do I remove water from boiler

    How do I remove the water from the boiler?

    The water gauge is exactly the same when I turn the knob on the side to release the water from boiler.

    I turn 3 knob which water came out from boiler but the water gauge is over full to the top and is not moving a in to remove water how can I get the water out from there?
  • Rod
    Rod Posts: 2,067
    Boiler Drains.

    H i- I'm not sure just what your are referring to as "the knob on the side" of the boiler. The boiler drains are usually low, near the bottom of the boiler. If you have a lot of excess water you may have to empty several gallons or more. Don't operate the boiler unless you know exactly where the water line is located. Again I would urge you to call a heating professional.

    - Rod
  • jpf321
    jpf321 Member Posts: 1,568
    it sounds like you are ....

    overfilled to excess .. overfilled to the point where the water has raised into your radiators and is coming out of the vents .. this is, as was mentioned, probably due to a faulty auto-feeder, or a leaking manual feed valve....you have many many gallons in the system right now, I'm not sure where you are draining from, but first make sure that BOTH top and bottom glass gauge knobs are open .. and then start to drain the water from valve on the boiler located near your floor... depending on how much water you actually have in the system and how fast your drain valve allows the water out .. it could be several minutes/hours before the water is drained out .. while you are waiting, please CALL A PROFESSIONAL so that he can fix your leaking feed valve. where are you located?
    1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC

    NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph

    installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains

    Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
    my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics
This discussion has been closed.