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Cracked drain valve pipe
Eric Scheidler
Member Posts: 83
A few weeks ago I finally submitted to my wife's request to fire up the boiler, a Burnham IN8. Before doing so, I wanted to drain off the rusty water and fill back up to full.
However, when I turned the drain valve, nothing came out. I'd had this problem before -- gunk in the drain pipe -- so I knew I just had to remove the drain valve and clear out the pipe.
Unfortunately, I was in a hurry (eager to get out on a bike ride) and didn't think to use two pipe wrenches.
So instead of screwing off the valve, I <span style="text-decoration:underline;">cracked the pipe</span> coming out of the boiler -- a 2" nipple.
It wasn't completely destroyed -- I felt something was wrong right away -- but the crack was enough that water began to drain out of the boiler.
Whatever movement I had made was apparently enough to dislodge the blockage, so I opened up the drain and emptied out the boiler.
Then off to the hardware store. My first thought was to try to repair the crack with some Water Weld. But while at the hardware store, I also picked up a 3/4" pipe nipple extractor -- an ingenious thing that grips a piece of pipe from <span style="text-decoration:underline;">inside</span>.
So far, the Water Weld is holding up, though there is a slight drip, and the area around the pipe is rusty and getting built up with some kind of deposit. I don't know how long it will hold.
I'd like to fix this thing properly, but I'm concerned that even with the nipple extractor I just won't be able to get that pipe out of the boiler, but in trying to get it out I'll crack it off completely and I'll be left with a big hole in my boiler.
Another option is to remove the bushing that this pipe attaches to. But again, I'm concerned about being able to get it out. A few years ago I was unable to get the plug out of the skim tapping on this boiler (had to skim through the upper sight glass tapping).
What's more, that would mean removing (somehow) the casing around that side of the boiler, which would be tricky (gas pipe comes in pretty tight, for example).
So, that's the backstory. My question is, Should I:
1. Leave well enough alone -- hope the Water Weld holds through the winter?
2. Try to get out that nipple and replace it, and if that fails, go for the bushing?
A wrinkle in all this is that I'll be out of town from Nov 4-9. Which means if the pipe starts leaking badly while I'm away, my family will be very cold.
On the other hand, if I get myself into a position where I've got nothing but a big hole in the boiler where the drain valve tapping belongs, then I'm screwed.
Thoughts?
-- Eric
However, when I turned the drain valve, nothing came out. I'd had this problem before -- gunk in the drain pipe -- so I knew I just had to remove the drain valve and clear out the pipe.
Unfortunately, I was in a hurry (eager to get out on a bike ride) and didn't think to use two pipe wrenches.
So instead of screwing off the valve, I <span style="text-decoration:underline;">cracked the pipe</span> coming out of the boiler -- a 2" nipple.
It wasn't completely destroyed -- I felt something was wrong right away -- but the crack was enough that water began to drain out of the boiler.
Whatever movement I had made was apparently enough to dislodge the blockage, so I opened up the drain and emptied out the boiler.
Then off to the hardware store. My first thought was to try to repair the crack with some Water Weld. But while at the hardware store, I also picked up a 3/4" pipe nipple extractor -- an ingenious thing that grips a piece of pipe from <span style="text-decoration:underline;">inside</span>.
So far, the Water Weld is holding up, though there is a slight drip, and the area around the pipe is rusty and getting built up with some kind of deposit. I don't know how long it will hold.
I'd like to fix this thing properly, but I'm concerned that even with the nipple extractor I just won't be able to get that pipe out of the boiler, but in trying to get it out I'll crack it off completely and I'll be left with a big hole in my boiler.
Another option is to remove the bushing that this pipe attaches to. But again, I'm concerned about being able to get it out. A few years ago I was unable to get the plug out of the skim tapping on this boiler (had to skim through the upper sight glass tapping).
What's more, that would mean removing (somehow) the casing around that side of the boiler, which would be tricky (gas pipe comes in pretty tight, for example).
So, that's the backstory. My question is, Should I:
1. Leave well enough alone -- hope the Water Weld holds through the winter?
2. Try to get out that nipple and replace it, and if that fails, go for the bushing?
A wrinkle in all this is that I'll be out of town from Nov 4-9. Which means if the pipe starts leaking badly while I'm away, my family will be very cold.
On the other hand, if I get myself into a position where I've got nothing but a big hole in the boiler where the drain valve tapping belongs, then I'm screwed.
Thoughts?
-- Eric
0
Comments
-
carefully....
drain and then .. take a hacksaw blade and cut lengthwise 2 slits (@11o'clock and 1o'clock) to take out a small piece on the interior of the pipe (you may need to first cut the pipe closer (but leave enough for a bite with a wrench)) you may also find it helpful to gently tap the piece out with a screwdriver.. then using a wrench your pipe should come out easily ..
i say carefully because you don't want to saw into the threads of the boiler as best as you can manage.
replace new nipple with lampwick and a dab of pipe dope.
good luck.1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0 -
Thanks a million ...
... for the advice. Maybe I'll try using that nipple extractor first, and if it fails, I'll attempt the hacksaw solution.
One question: What's lampwick? Not one to be lazy, I did a Google search for it, but came up with nothing but some Disney character from Pinocchio. (Pipe dope I've got.)
-- Eric0 -
lampwick ...
Page 14 here: http://www.wal-rich.com/Tools.pdf
For sale: http://www.simplyplumbing.com/tools-wal-rich-corporation-lampwick-balls.html
Discussed: http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/92820/Lampwick
and the most uninteresting video you will ever watch:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzJqWT7Qtu41-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0 -
What weight . . .
. . . of lampwick would you suggest for 3/4" pipe?0 -
dunno...
dunno .. whatever fits comfortably in the threads, i think in the discussion i linked to above, someone suggested a heavy cotton sewing thread as an option. if you go with something too fine, you can always add more, if you go with something too thick, you'll need to separate the strands to make it thinner.
any pros here want to comment?1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0
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