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Quick Air Vent Question
Sil
Member Posts: 72
Trying to learn all I can about my single pipe steam system. After 12 years of service I decided to refinish my rads and have had all sorts of surging and pipe banging issues (no good deed goes unpunished).
Today I decided to hunt around for a main vent. Several years ago I insulated all the pipes around the boiler and there were no vents in the piping around the boiler. I tried my best to follow the main line into the finished part of my basement and behind a wall.
Lo and behold in a really tight area behind the wall where the main has an elbow where the return must start its run... I could feel a vent. I had to rip out part of a window well... but I got the valve off (pictured below). Its an old Hoffman No 70 and had only 1/8" threads.
My question is, what should I replace it with?
Can I for the time being (like until the weekend) just put a Maid-O-Mist on there with the little cap taken off (the screw on cap that would make it a #4, 5 or 6)?
Thx
<img src="http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa262/silmarg/DSC_0117.jpg" width="1023" height="680" alt="" />
Today I decided to hunt around for a main vent. Several years ago I insulated all the pipes around the boiler and there were no vents in the piping around the boiler. I tried my best to follow the main line into the finished part of my basement and behind a wall.
Lo and behold in a really tight area behind the wall where the main has an elbow where the return must start its run... I could feel a vent. I had to rip out part of a window well... but I got the valve off (pictured below). Its an old Hoffman No 70 and had only 1/8" threads.
My question is, what should I replace it with?
Can I for the time being (like until the weekend) just put a Maid-O-Mist on there with the little cap taken off (the screw on cap that would make it a #4, 5 or 6)?
Thx
<img src="http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa262/silmarg/DSC_0117.jpg" width="1023" height="680" alt="" />
0
Comments
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really small
try as soon as possible to put on a proper main-line vent, like a gorton#2. that hoffman is only capacious enough for a radiator-not a main!--nbc0 -
Main Vent
Is there a bushing where you removed this 1/8" vent? If so, take it out and follow Nicholas' advice. If it is not a bushed fitting, then you have another problem. It really should be replumbed so that you can install a proper "main" vent. However, in the meantime, you could use a Heat timer varivalve vent in the wide open position. It will vent the same as a Hoffman #75.Dave in Quad Cities, America
Weil-McLain 680 with Riello 2-stage burner, December 2012. Firing rate=375MBH Low, 690MBH Hi.
System = Early Dunham 2-pipe Vacuo-Vapor (inlet and outlet both at bottom of radiators) Traps are Dunham #2 rebuilt w. Barnes-Jones Cage Units, Dunham-Bush 1E, Mepco 1E, and Armstrong TS-2. All valves haveTunstall orifices sized at 8 oz.
Current connected load EDR= 1,259 sq ft, Original system EDR = 2,100 sq ft Vaporstat, 13 oz cutout, 4 oz cutin - Temp. control Tekmar 279.
http://grandviewdavenport.com0 -
no bushing
The vent was tapped into the elbow at the end of the main (where it turns down into the return). No Bushing. Just and 1/8" tapping.
I will have to find a heat-timer dealer in my area.
Ugh... I keep finding more bad news...0 -
try pex supply
Try Pex Supply
http://www.pexsupply.com/Varivalves-362000
Make sure you get the angle style, as this is the configuration of the one you removed.Dave in Quad Cities, America
Weil-McLain 680 with Riello 2-stage burner, December 2012. Firing rate=375MBH Low, 690MBH Hi.
System = Early Dunham 2-pipe Vacuo-Vapor (inlet and outlet both at bottom of radiators) Traps are Dunham #2 rebuilt w. Barnes-Jones Cage Units, Dunham-Bush 1E, Mepco 1E, and Armstrong TS-2. All valves haveTunstall orifices sized at 8 oz.
Current connected load EDR= 1,259 sq ft, Original system EDR = 2,100 sq ft Vaporstat, 13 oz cutout, 4 oz cutin - Temp. control Tekmar 279.
http://grandviewdavenport.com0
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