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Newbie to Steam
EKDatDKE
Member Posts: 14
Hey guys,
I just came across your site as I bought a house two months ago that is strictly steam! It is a house built in the 1940's with original boiler and steam radiators. After reading through some of the threads, my wife and I pitched some radiators, checked to make sure all valves are open and that pipes were well insulated and downward sloping back to the boiler.
Everything seems pretty good. I know some of the posts in this room had discussed vents, and I was wondering how my vents worked. They don't have a hole on the top, but a switch on the side that says open or closed and of course you can move the swtich in between. It is like nothing I have seen in any of the pictures on this site.
Also I went over to HD last night to get some new vents because my wife had told me that some of the radiators were hissing. They only had what looked to be flimsy and and inadquate selection of replacement vents so I thought I would come here. I would prefer to go American made!!
Sometimes some of the radiators seem to make noises and sometimes not, does it depend on starting from cold? It is hard to figure out if there is a need to replace things because the radiators are inconsistant.
I assume that some hissing is standard with the system as well as some knocking. Overall it seems things are working fine, not too much noise, but a couple of suprises every once in a while.
My wife had told me that one of the radiators 2nd farthest from the boilers is letting water out of the valve. I assume I can either tighten or replace the valve?
We had also discussed in the spring possibly getting all the vents and valves replaced as most of them look like they haven't been in touched in decades? Is this a good idea or a waste of money. I know if it ain't broke, don't fix it...but we want to make sure our system is running efficiently.
Lastly, the vent on the side controls the heat to the radiator, but when we leave the house should we keep the house at a constant temp say 60 degrees or right now we just completely turn it off and then turn it back on when we come back to about 70.
And is there anything else we should know or do? Thanks!!!
Thanks guys!!
Eric
I just came across your site as I bought a house two months ago that is strictly steam! It is a house built in the 1940's with original boiler and steam radiators. After reading through some of the threads, my wife and I pitched some radiators, checked to make sure all valves are open and that pipes were well insulated and downward sloping back to the boiler.
Everything seems pretty good. I know some of the posts in this room had discussed vents, and I was wondering how my vents worked. They don't have a hole on the top, but a switch on the side that says open or closed and of course you can move the swtich in between. It is like nothing I have seen in any of the pictures on this site.
Also I went over to HD last night to get some new vents because my wife had told me that some of the radiators were hissing. They only had what looked to be flimsy and and inadquate selection of replacement vents so I thought I would come here. I would prefer to go American made!!
Sometimes some of the radiators seem to make noises and sometimes not, does it depend on starting from cold? It is hard to figure out if there is a need to replace things because the radiators are inconsistant.
I assume that some hissing is standard with the system as well as some knocking. Overall it seems things are working fine, not too much noise, but a couple of suprises every once in a while.
My wife had told me that one of the radiators 2nd farthest from the boilers is letting water out of the valve. I assume I can either tighten or replace the valve?
We had also discussed in the spring possibly getting all the vents and valves replaced as most of them look like they haven't been in touched in decades? Is this a good idea or a waste of money. I know if it ain't broke, don't fix it...but we want to make sure our system is running efficiently.
Lastly, the vent on the side controls the heat to the radiator, but when we leave the house should we keep the house at a constant temp say 60 degrees or right now we just completely turn it off and then turn it back on when we come back to about 70.
And is there anything else we should know or do? Thanks!!!
Thanks guys!!
Eric
0
Comments
-
where?
you fail to mention where you are located?
don't use the Home Depot vents .. i have pictures on here somewhere of HD vents that actually split down the sides.
i prefer to pick a temp that my family is comfortable with and leave it there all winter with no adjustments or setbacks.
make sure your pressure is turned down low at the boiler.
post copious pictures of your boiler and it's nearby piping and the equipment from close-up and further back. (you can see my photos in the link below in my signature)
see if you can find any vents in the basement and let us know what you find.
welcome to steam.1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0 -
Books
Hi-
Your best bet is to get Dan's books on steam heating with are available in the "Shop" at the top of this page.
I would start with "We Got Steam Heat" as it is a good introduction for the homeowner and will answer pretty well all of your questions and a lot more you haven't thought about yet!
http://www.heatinghelp.com/products/Books/5/61/We-Got-Steam-Heat-A-Homeowners-Guide-to-Peaceful-Coexistence
It's also available as a package deal with two other books you will want next.
http://www.heatinghelp.com/products/Super-Deals/14/129/A-Steamy-Deal
These books have saved me at least 100 times their cost!
As to your questions- Why don't you post a picture of your vents so we can take a look at them and possibly identify what you have.
Steam heating systems are pretty robust and will keep operating regardless but in most cases the maintenance on them, over the years, has been neglected so there is quite often the opportunity that with just a little tuning and maybe a few new parts they can be made more efficient and comfortable. It may not be broke but it may not be running at its optimum.
- Rod0 -
Newbie Response
Rod,
Thank you very much for your response. I will get some pictures up for you guys and I will post them tonight when I get home!
Steam heat really keep the place warm I will tell you that much!!
Eric0 -
Pictures
Okay guys, I posted some pictures. This is the radiator that seems to the biggest problem. When the heat is going full blast it makes a noise almost like static on a tv when you aren't getting cable. It is coming from the valve definitely as I can see the air hitting a cobweb that is under the cap of the valve. Should I tighten it or does the valve need to be replaced? Also, I have pictures of the vents. All of the vents in my house are all closed. Should I change this. There really isn't much pinging just this static noise coming from a couple of radiators. This radiator is the farthest away from the boiler on the 1st floor. We have an upstairs too and the upstairs radiator above this has no problem other than small hammering, 8 - 9 pings on start up. Thanks guys!!!0 -
Radiator Vents
Hi Eric-
The vents yoiu have in the picture are Heat Timer Vari -Vents. There is no "Off" position on them - just a minimum and maximum.. They are very aggressive vents, that is to say they are large capacity vents and vent air from the radiator very quickly. On a 1 pipe system (There is only only pipe going to each radiator hence a one pipe system )which is what you appear to have there are some disdvantages of venting too quickly. The stream of steam rushes into the radiator too quickly it can collide with the condensate (water) trying to leave the radiator. This collision can cause noise and also allow the steam to pick up water.
How a Radiator vent works - The radiator vent allows air to escape but when steam reaches it, the vent shuts. There is a bellows inside the vent that contains alcohol.. The heat boils the alcohol and the bellows expands shutting the vent.When the radiator cools the bellows contracts and opens the vent letting air back in..
Some radiator vents have just a bellows and others Like the Hoffman 1A and Ven- Rite have a bellows and also incorporate a float that will also close the vent if water gets into the vent. Most people use the float /bellows type.The float bellows type look like a bullet pointing straight up. The is a third type radiator vent which has a float but uses a bi - metal strip that close they valve when heat is present. These are round and look like a small cat of cat food on its side. All this is covered in Dan;s books.
What you need to do is replace your vari -vents with vents that aren't quite as aggressive and that vent more slowly.
Here is a link to an article that maybe of more help to you.
. http://www.heatinghelp.com/article/11/Hot-Tech-Tips/138/Balancing-One-Pipe-Steam-Systems
- Rod0 -
Vents
Thank you for your response. That makes sense!! Just a question as I am skpetical being new to steam and messing with what seems to be a pretty quiet system. Do I need to replace the vents all ALL of my radiators if I change this one? And are the vents you recommended above good vents to use?
Thanks again!!!
Eric0 -
tv static = hissing?
I am assuming that the sound that you describe as TV static could also be described as hissing. If this sound is coming from the inlet valve, and you can also see a cobweb moving around as a result, it is pretty save to assume that you have a leaky valve stem. This is pretty easy to correct. The valve stem is normally sealed by packing material that is compressed by the packing nut. The nut is the upper most part of the valve body. It is possible that you have enough packing in the valve and all you will have to do is tighten it slightly. First, put a wrench, (no pliers or vice grips please) on the nut and turn it slightly counter clockwise to loosen it and break the paint loose. Then turn it clockwise to tighten it up. You can exercise the valve back and forth to see just how tight you have made it. The valve should still turn with relative ease, but a small amount of resistance. Any slop or rattling that is probably there now should also go away. Then, fire up the the boiler and see if that hissing is gone.Dave in Quad Cities, America
Weil-McLain 680 with Riello 2-stage burner, December 2012. Firing rate=375MBH Low, 690MBH Hi.
System = Early Dunham 2-pipe Vacuo-Vapor (inlet and outlet both at bottom of radiators) Traps are Dunham #2 rebuilt w. Barnes-Jones Cage Units, Dunham-Bush 1E, Mepco 1E, and Armstrong TS-2. All valves haveTunstall orifices sized at 8 oz.
Current connected load EDR= 1,259 sq ft, Original system EDR = 2,100 sq ft Vaporstat, 13 oz cutout, 4 oz cutin - Temp. control Tekmar 279.
http://grandviewdavenport.com0 -
Hissing
Also, is it possible that this hissing only occurs when it is a cold start up when we get home in the evening? I am not awake in the middle of the night to check if the hissing occurs everytime. Once the house gets heated it tends to stay warm for quite a long time!
Eric0 -
Books on Steam
Erik....I too am a new user to steam. I have a one-pipe counter-flowing system. I purchased a few books from this site (rod mentioned them earlier) and I have to tell you it open a huge world of knowledge to me. I now understand steam more than I ever thought I would. Now I just need to fine tune and tweak. Some of the stuff you describe sounds very similar to my situation. Especially the part about "if it's not broken don't fix it". I was at that stage before I learned more about steam. Now I find myself doing and checking the little things to make the system more efficient. My next step, I will be replacing all my vents with the same type. My current vents look like they have been on the radiators for decades. Good luck with you system.
Sparky0
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