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Steam vshut off valve

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I have to replace a broken shutoff valve on a single pipe steam radiator. The valve that is there seems to be a little different then the others in the house. This valve has a straight body while the others have a rounded/bulbus body. My question is:

Do I need to buy a valve that has the rounded body versus the straight body? They seem to cost more and I can't get them at the local HD. Does it really make a difference? Does the rounded body allow the steam and condensate to pass like two ships in the night?

I noticed that this radiator does tap, ting and woosh much more then the others and I am not sure if that is because of the valve.

Thanks</span>

Comments

  • SBostonSBoston Member Posts: 61
    Follow-up

    I need to reinstall the radiator tomorrow night, any information on this would be very helpful.

    Thanks
  • SBostonSBoston Member Posts: 61
    Follow-up

    I need to reinstall the radiator tomorrow night, any information on this would be very helpful.

    Thanks
  • Brad WhiteBrad White Member Posts: 2,392
    edited September 2010
    Can you get any valve

    with a similar center to center dimension?



    The rounded body and higher volume does assist, but was also easier to cast, easier to get the sand out when breaking the mold. Cannot say if it absolutely was because of easier cross passage of steam and condensate, but that makes sense.



    If it is a rush, dang the cost, get what you need. That would be my advice.



    Edit- Check out Tunstall Associates in Chicopee.



    http://tunstall-inc.com/



    See if they cannot help you. Lots of good steam retrofit items and new stuff too.
    "If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



    -Ernie White, my Dad
  • RodRod Posts: 2,067
    Radiator Valves

    Hi- I was going to leave this to the pros as I'm not an expert on radiator valves but since you have time urgency I'll chime in.  If you have a 1 pipe steam system it would seem to me that due to the steam going in /condensate coming out that the internal design of the radiator valve might be important.

    I have noticed that the major valve manufacturers specify if the valve is for "steam", "hot water & steam", or plain "hot water" so I'd be sure the valve you're using is approved for steam. Whether this has to do with internal design and/or materials used I have no idea.



    Here are a couple of spec sheets that maybe of help.

    http://www.mepcollc.com/steamspec/radv.htm

    http://www.hammondvalve.com/data/pdf/100%2025%20200.pdf   - Note though both valves have the same physical specs, one (the 100-25) is for steam and hot water and the other (the 200) is solely Hot Water.

    Also you might want to check State Supply for more specs/manufacturers.

    - Rod
  • SBostonSBoston Member Posts: 61
    New valve came in

    The new steam valve came in and the threads on the new valve are slightly bigger then the old one. It looks like i will need to get a spud wrench and switch out the parts.  Is there any trick to doing this? I am worried that these parts have been in there for 100+ years and won't come out.  Any guys on here have any tricks they would like to pass on?

    Also i noticed that the 4 bars that join all the sections of the radiator together were loose.  I tightened them up but i wasn't sure how tight the needed to be?
  • RodRod Posts: 2,067
    Careful Tightening the Rods!

    Ideas- Use a small wire brush and clean the paint off the threads where they join the radiator and apply penetrating oil and leave over night.  Also carefully applied heat to the radiator, even a hair dryer for a period of time may help. I've heated the radiator near the pipe and then used a refrigerated cold pack on the pipe which may have helped.  Use a Big wrench. Be careful to have someone help you secure the radiator. You don't want it tipping over on you!



    Be careful about tightening radiator rods as you have to allow for expansion. Let the steam heat the radiator first and then (with a gloved hand) check the rods for looseness. That will give you a better idea of how much slack the rods actually have. Tightening them too much cold and they make break when the radiator heats and expands.

    - Rod
  • SBostonSBoston Member Posts: 61
    Got it out, but not with our damage



    The bad news:

    The little nubs that allow the spud wrench to grab onto broke when I tried to unscrew it (soft brass). I drilled a hole through the brass nipple and inserted an hardened steel rod that I could grab onto with a 3 ft pipe wrench… broke the rod. Cut the nipple off and used a hacksaw blade to cut the inside of the nipple off and chiseled the rest of the nipple out from the radiator. Then to much chagrin I noticed I had scared the threads with the hacksaw blade. I put the new nipple in and hooked the radiator up. I was sure that it was going to leak but with enough tape and pipe dope, I don't think it's going to be a problem (no leaks yet).

    For the next one, I think I know the best way to get these things out. To bad I didn't figure it out before cutting the threads on the radiator.

    The good news:

    The radiator is silent… not a ping… swoosh or gurgle. my daughter no long things there is a monster coming from the radiator (no more tears, keep your fingers crossed)

    The valve really does make a difference.
  • RodRod Posts: 2,067
    Monsters in the Bedroom

    Glad to hear it worked out. Eliminating "monsters" isn't easy,  My  daughter had one hiding under her bed which I finally got rid of by boxing the bottom of the bed in so it couldn't hide there.

    - Rod
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