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Electric static interference from heat. Aquastat?
wfg97079
Member Posts: 3
This isnt my video but its a great example of what Im seeing
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZlLJXvGqvs">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZlLJXvGqvs</a>
during the time BEFORE the firing up, I get interference on everything in the house.
here are some photos of my setup.
<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/wfg97079/oil/">http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/wfg97079/oil/</a>
Does this point to a bad aquastat? Can anything be repaired on teh aquastat or am I looking at a new unit?
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZlLJXvGqvs">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZlLJXvGqvs</a>
during the time BEFORE the firing up, I get interference on everything in the house.
here are some photos of my setup.
<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/wfg97079/oil/">http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d169/wfg97079/oil/</a>
Does this point to a bad aquastat? Can anything be repaired on teh aquastat or am I looking at a new unit?
0
Comments
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Sizzling noise is the arc from ignitor
WFG, I am not a heating professional, however I am an Electrical engineer. The interference is due to the electrical arc that ignites the oil. This arc should not cause interference with everything in the house.
It is high voltage that is NOT to be messed with !!
Because you are experiecing interference, that means one or more things are not correct.
1) Get a HEATING PROFESSIONAL in there to tune up the boiler. To weed out the less than qualified technicians, verify that they use a piece of equipment called a Combustion Analyzer. A quick way to check to see if they used one is to look for the digital printout from the analyzer. There also should be a hole about 1/4 inch in diameter in the metal chimney piping above the boiler.
At the top of this website, there is a box marked "Find a Professional" Type in your zip code and search for one in your general area.
If that does not cure the problem, then check the following.
2) Ensure the boiler is on its own electrical circuit.
3) Ensure that all of the boiler exterior sheet metal is correctly installed and all of the mounting screws are tight.
4) Ensure the electrical grounding path between the boiler and the building electrical ground is complete.
5) Have an electrician verify the grounding and bonding systems are intact and in good condition.
Please report back with what happens.0 -
SAM
looks like your ignition transformer / ignitor has lost it's mid-point ground.0 -
change the control
it is high voltage, and the points are burnt0 -
Thanks
Larry,
Thanks, I have had the oil company look at this thing many times. As well as two uncles who are electricians. Grounding doesnt seem to be the issue.
Billtwocase,
which part are you referring to?0 -
static
WFG, the pics are of your Burnham V-1 series? If so, then have the Honeywell 8182H control replaced. This is the brains of the operation, and pricey, but there is no repair that can be made to resolve your issue. Hope this helps0 -
yes indeed
How expensive? is it a simple swap of a part or would I need a pro to do it for me?0 -
best to get someone
This is a safety control as well as an aquastat/burner and circulator relay combination. Usually don't discuss price on here, and all company's prices will vary. just make sure that it is an H control, and not the J. The J looks identical until the cover is pulled off. This is strictly a cold start control, and you will have no hot water, as you have a tankless coil that needs to have the boiler maintaining an average of 170 degrees in order to produce your domestic hot water. Although not cheaper, you can always have the hired person add two separate controls. It would really be the best way. The aquastat could be updated to digital and even a low water cut off feature, and the burner could get a shiny new Genisis cad cell control. Just some food for thought. good luck to you0
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