Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Shutting down boiler for summer
I have an old boiler for steam heat. It was built in the 60's and I don't have a manual. What is the proper procedure when shutting it down for the summer. I was told to release a valve at least once a week during the winter . #1-Do I no longer have to do that not that its summer and I wont be using it? #2-Should the water in the boiler be drained completely? #3-Turn the pilot light off? Sorry if these are bad questions but I am new to this type of heating. Thanks
#1 - Yes, you still have to drain the low water cutoff (LWCO), but only once a month instead of once a week.
#2 - No, leave the water in the boiler.
#3 - Sure, turn off the pilot.8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hourTwo btu/ per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0
Thanks - Another question
Thanks for the reply. One other question....
I was also told I need to drain the boiler once a month during the winter months (in addition to draining the low water cuttoff weekly). Is this necessary? Thanks0
drain no... bleed out dirty water yes ...
As far as I know, it is not recommended to DRAIN the boiler completely... however, you should open the drain valves on the boiler every now and again to bleed out the dirty water that collects on the bottom.1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0
I agree no drain
My boiler is maybe a decade newer than yours and I'd be afraid to drain and refill it in the winter for fear of cracking it. I imagine that going from very hot water to very cold water would be quite the thermal shock to the old cast iron.1929 Ideal Heating vapor system.0
Thermal shock is an issue only if you fill the boiler without allowing it to cool first. There's no problem draining the boiler and filling it again as long as you: 1. Shut it down first, and allow it to cool for an hour, 2. Drain it, and allow the "dry" iron it to cool for an hour. 3. Fill it, and boil it immediately to get rid of the corrosion-causing extra oxygen in the new water.0
And cut the pilot
On boilers with constant on pilots, I think it would be safest to shut off the pilot, too. I would think that the cool down time would vary depending on ambiant temp, etc. So while an hour might be a good rule of thumb, in some cases it might take longer. My point was that it seems like a potentially risky operation do in the dead of winter with no notable gain.1929 Ideal Heating vapor system.0
This will sound really dumb, but do I turn off the pilot by turning off the gas supply? It lights itself.0
If the pilot lights by itself
every time the boiler starts, then it also shuts down when the boiler shuts down. So as long as the boiler isn't running, the pilot is off.
This is called a "spark-to-pilot" system if the ignition for the pilot is a spark.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
My pilot is still on.
Tho my thermostat is all the way turned down. I know it is lighting itself because the gas has been turned off a couple times to have a meter replaced etc., and it came back by itself, which is something my hot water heater did not do. Is there something else that might need to be checked?0
Is it possible that there was enough gas in the line that allowed the pilot to keep burning? A meter swap doesn't take very long. How do you know it's relighting itself? Did you see that it was off? How do you know yours isn't a constant on one? That's what I have, and I have to manually turn it off every year.1929 Ideal Heating vapor system.0
you could post a few pics if the set-up you have?0
Turns out the problem was that I was an idiot. It was not lighting
itself. I was looking in the wrong place. My situation is basically the same as Brian describes above.0
This discussion has been closed.
- 121.3K All Categories
- 84K THE MAIN WALL
- 2.9K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 417 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 40 Chimneys & Flues
- 1.7K Domestic Hot Water
- 4.7K Gas Heating
- 119 Geothermal
- 155 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3K Oil Heating
- 56 Pipe Deterioration
- 771 Plumbing
- 5.4K Radiant Heating
- 362 Solar
- 14K Strictly Steam
- 3K Thermostats and Controls
- 51 Water Quality
- 625 Buy, Sell, Barter
- 38 Industry Classes
- 73 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements