WM Steam boiler install

KeithC

Just wanted to share some photos of a neat Weil Mclain steam boiler replacement I did recently. 



This is an EG-35.  Notice the full sized steam header, with stress elbows.  Compared to the old American Standard that was in its place, this thing was whisper quiet even on first startup.  I insulated after I took the photos.



If you take a look at the second shot, you'll see a condensate hot water loop manifold that I installed into the mud leg, in preparation for a future connection.  The homeowner anticipates building a family room in his basement, and I left all the necessary instructions and fittings for him to just hook up his baseboard and fill the system.



Anyway just wanted to show off a little and share with you how I do things.

Thanks

Keith

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

WM

Nice work!



How would you wire the hot water aquastat?

KeithC

WM

Use a Honeywell R845A with dry contacts. . . NOT a Honeywell RA89A switching relay, which is commonly available, but only has one set of switching contacts.



The aquastat gets wired in the same way as a hydronic boiler.  When the basement thermostat calls for heat, the 845 activates the pump, and sends a LV signal to the boiler to fire.  The aquastat is set in series on the boiler fire, letting the boiler run up to about 200 degrees F, then switching off on limit.



However, the pump remains running for as long as the thermostat calls.



Because the basement zone controls are run in parallel to the standard boiler control wiring, the basement and steam settings are effectively isolated from each other.



That little manifold has solved a lot of problems for me.



Keith

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

WM

A supply and return off 1 tapping. Sweet!

Mark Eatherton

Explanation please...

Good looking installation.



Can you give more details on your hydronicizer ? Is there a dip tube involved with its use? Is there a venturi fitting involved?



Thanks



ME

KeithC

WM

Sorry I don't want to give away the whole thing. . .



But I can tell you that I took the design almost directly from Dan's "How Come?" book of hydronics. 



It's a great book and well worth the purchase price.



Keith

Mark Eatherton

Understood...

Based on personal experience, you have to flow water across the sections in order to scrub any decent heat. Last time I did one with the in and the out on the same side, it didn't work very well. Ended up having to change it to get the heat needed to keep the space warm.



ME

KeithC

WM

Trust me the the supply and return water are being taken from opposite sections of the boiler.  This loop will have NO problem getting heat into it.



Keith

Mark Eatherton

Got it....

Looked it up in the library and saw what you're doing. I've used the same methodology to convert a one pipe steam radiator to a 2 pipe hot water radiator.



I concur. You will get a decent wash through the sections.



The only thing I would have done differently is to NOT use a cartridge pump. They HATE rust, and generally lock up fairly quick. This is the one good application for a good ol' B&G Series 100 in my opinion.



ME

Steamhead

And

the 100 or other 3-piece circ should be bronze. Otherwise it will rust up inside and fail.



The mechanical seal between the system water and the oil-lubricated pump shaft is key in this application. A wet-rotor circ, as Mark says, doesn't like the water in a steam boiler. But oil up a 3-piece once a year and it will last a long time, and if it does fail it can be repaired.

Mark Eatherton

Good point Frank...

I skipped right over the bronze or non ferrous issue. I must be getting old :-)



You're right, ferrous components don't like hot aqueos solutions.



Thanks for the catch.



ME