megasteam 396 header mockup?

jpf321

Any thoughts on the below proposed header for a Burnham MegaSteam 396 .. .

Dimensions are for approximation only.

All piping is shown as 2" ..

the Pink would be 2" ..

the Yellow 3" ..

White are existing 2"



<img src="http://content.screencast.com/users/JPF321/folders/Jing/media/65356ccc-1128-41a6-b59a-f58d0c21b8fd/2010-02-06_1321.png" />

<img src="" />

Unknown

Angle Risers

Hi jpf - Just some thoughts - On the risers from the header to the mains you might want to exit off the header at a 45 degree or something similar and go straight up to the mains at an angle rather than vertical with a 90 degree horizontal bend as you have now.

Benefits -

1.Condensate would flow down one side of the pipe rather than drop into the steam stream.

2. Better flow as it eliminates a 90 degree elbow.

3. Less pipe so less lost radiation.

4. Great pitch all the way along the pipe from the mains to the header.

From the drawing it's hard to see if there are any clearance situations that might interfer with piping it this way so you might want to check that out.



You also might want to install King valves so that you can blow down the boiler. They wouldn't be too expensive as your risers aren't that big.

- Rod

Steamhead

Looks good to me

The most important thing is the 3" header (yellow piping). This will really dry out the steam. I like the king valve idea too. 

jpf321

thanks .. and a few more views

thanks Rod and SH. here are a few more views:

jpf321

with king valves ...

jpf321

like this rod?

Unknown

Dropheader Design

Hi jpf -  I was thinking more of how a radiator lateral comes off the main at angle (Page 87 LAOSH -top left corner) and doing this just on the risers going from the header to the mains. I've seen this done several times and i think it is a nice touch as condensate draining back doesn't drop into the steam stream but flow downs the lower side of the pipe. This maybe going a bit overboard as the pros design excellent headers without this feature. I would think that if it was really an appreciable benefit more would do it.

On the exit risers coming out of the boiler, I don't think you want to angle them as it would create a sharp bend going into the top of the header. I think a better approach for this is the one Gerry Gill uses of going out of the boiler exit port full size and then using a bell reducer to go to a larger pipe. This immediately slows down the steam and this, combined with height, gets rid of a lot of water. The wider diameter pipe also forms a peripheral area out of the steam stream for the water to collect and flow down the walls of the pipe. Gerry Gill is the "Michelangelo" of dropheader design and you can learn a lot by studying pictures of his creations on his website. They are works of art!



As for the king valves, they should go on the risers from the header to the mains. That way you can shut down an individual main, blow down the boiler and test the vaporstat etc. easily. 

When designing your header, play around with different configurations. When you are making your own, you can go for maximum design as you aren't worried about competing against the lowest bid.

- Rod

jpf321

thanks...

thanks I will go poke around Mr Gills site again..

jpf321

another version ...

incorporating some of the comments I have rec'd .. and after looking at Mr. Gill's site.

jpf321

now it's starting to look like something :-)

I used the Ward Fitting Catalog to draw up some properly spec'd fittings .. again, dimensions are for approximation only .. not expected to be exact ..



i see that Mr. Gill uses flange unions where I have a 7" straight pipe .. i understand why the union makes it much easier, but is it impossible without it? can a standard 4" pipe union be used instead of a flange? is there a particular advantage of a flange over a standard union?

Eric Olson

Awesome work

This post is exactly where I am when it comes to figuring the header. It looks like you have put a lot of thought into this. I as well would like to hear some comments on your last posting (above this comment). Great job!



PS. Where do most people get their pipe from? Local or online?



Eric

Paul Fredricks_3

Valves

What type of valves do you guys use for king valves?

jpf321

piping & valves

I've only found 4" pipe locally. There is only 1 supply house in the area that will cut and thread 4" for me .. and all the other houses apparently send their threading jobs to them. 2" pipe can be cut and thread just about anywhere .. 3+ pipe needs a different machine apparently and few places have them.



FYI, the 4" piping and nipples as shown will run in the $800-900 range (sourced locally)

.. i didn't price 3" .. fittings are class 150 or 125 malleable or cast .





in terms of king valves .. it was suggested that I look at "good" quality gate valves, not ball valves ..

I found:

2" Milwaukee $90 http://www.simplyplumbing.com/milwaukeevalve-11515.html

Watts 2" threaded for $25 .. [url=http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Watts-0770110-2-Brass-Gate-Valve-WGV/64649/Cat/106]http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Watts-0770110-2-Brass-Gate-Valve-WGV/64649/Cat/106

Hammond 2" threaded $189 [url=http://www.statesupply.com/displayItem.do?sku=HE1685]http://www.statesupply.com/displayItem.do?sku=HE1685

The King valves will be 2" as they are cheaper and will go on the risers from header to steam main.