High Pressure help

dtb136

Hi,

I have a Peerless 63-09 boiler and the pressure on it after it's run for a cycle is scaring me.  The pressure on the gauge will go up to about 24psi while it's running and then after it's off for a while it will eventually drop to around 5psi (never lower).

Over the past few years we've taken out 3 or 4 radiators due to renovation (I'm thinking of adding one or two back now). 

All of the main pipes are insulated up to the last radiator feed.  I just purchased two Gorton #1's to add to the existing vent to see if it will alleviate the problem. 

The pressuretrol is set to .5 and the variability is 1. 

I will post some pics later to make sure everything is proper and also to see if there are any areas where I might be able to save some $$. 

nicholas bonham-carter

bad gauge?

i think you need to check your pressure with a new good low pressure gauge [gaugestore.com 0-2 psi. a working 0-30 psi gauge must remain, although the present one may be faulty and need to be replaced. as you install the new gauge, check the pigtail for obstruction. with an accurate gauge, you can verify the operation of the pressuretrol.

pressures higher than 3 psi will make the main vents inoperative-sometimes permanently.--nbc

dtb136

Pics

Ok now I just went home to get some pics and the gauge is reading a -18 so it seems as this gauge is fubar.

Here are some pics of the system.  Please give me any and all advice you have.  

[url=http://picasaweb.google.com/damon.bowen/HeatingSystem]http://picasaweb.google.com/damon.bowen/HeatingSystem

I'll try to draw out a diagram of how the main loops are setup and post it here. 

Charlie from wmass

check

clogged pigtail or bad gauge or both.

nicholas bonham-carter

peerless-bad gauge

that main vent, on the top of the tee should be put on an antler to protect it from any water-hammer coming up from underneath. a couple of 90's will interrupt the surge of water enough to protect it.

why not put a tee in the pigtail with a horizontal, and a 90 to enable the new gauge to feel the same pressure as the pressuretrol, and if you get a low pressure gauge, then put that on the same pigtail too.--nbc

dtb136

Thanks!

Will do on the antler.  I had intended to do that but didn't realize one vent was a 3/8 and the other was bigger. 

I like the idea of putting the gauge and the p-tol on the same line but what should I do with the existing pressure gauge (which seems broken)?  Just plug it? 

dtb136

One other question

I've been reading a lot about insulating the exposed piping but I wasn't sure if I should be insulating the boiler risers and the header.  Any thoughts?

Charlie from wmass

yes

insulate it all.

nicholas bonham-carter

bad gauge replacement

in spite of the fact that a 0-30 psi gauge is about as useless for our steam system purposes as a truck scale would be for a cook, who is weighing ingredients for baking a cake, it is required by code, so just replace it too in its present location. that type is an "internal syphon" gauge, which has a small pigtail built in. maybe a soak in vinegar, and hot soapy water will clean out the orifice.--nbc

dtb136

is this the right gauge?

would this be the correct gauge?



http://gaugestore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=33020

nicholas bonham-carter

good gauge

see if they have that gauge, with the pounds divided by ounces, as it is a bit more convenient than mentally computing all the time into ounces.

if you were going to have a o-16 oz.vaporstat in the near future, then a 0-15 ounce gauge would be a bit easier to read.--nbc

Unknown

Piping Problems

Hi- I just looked at your photos and you need to check your piping as it is no where near factory specifications. If you don't have an I&O Manual, here is a link where you can get a copy  http://www.peerlessboilers.com/Resources/Literature/TechnicalInformation/IOMManuals/tabid/86/Default.aspx

Look on Pages 14 & 15 of the manual - this is the minimum configuration you need to have and there are ways one can improve on the factory configuration. You system doesn't have a header or an equalizer. What is supposed to be the "Hartford Loop" is actually two returns fitted together. Also check your boiler's model number -" 63-09" I don't believe is the correct one.

You might want to check the Find a Professional section at the top of this page as you really need to get your piping straightened out as in the present configuartion it has to be using a lot of fuel. Where are you located? Do you have Dan's books? If not I'd highly recommend them to you.  http://www.heatinghelp.com/products/Super-Deals/14/129/A-Steamy-Deal    The books will help you a lot and also are handy as we can then reference you to a Page number when you have a question.

- Rod