radiator painting

4Barrel

i have a american "rococo" steam radiator in good condition. i had it dip-stripped and it is ready for a new coat of paint.i've read a number of good posts on the wall about radiator painting. i was looking to have it professionally spray painted, but am having trouble locating someone willing to take on the job, and am now considering doing it myself. has anyone tried using a spray Rustoleum enamel, and how were the the results?

TomM

spray enamels

I used rustoleum hammered in brown with great results.  its an alkylyd enamel.  Make sure that after its painted that you 'bake it on slow'.  heating it up to 200F right after its painted might make it bubble.  learned that the hard way.  and make sure to open the windows.  maybe wait until the weather is nice so you can open the windows. 

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4Barrel

rustoleum hammered

i bought a sample of the hammered gold and tested it on section - so far looks ok... did you use a primer? or apply direct?

Luv'nsteam

Rad painting

4barrel, make sure you clean off any residual residue from stripping (and oil from your hands after handling).  And definitely primer it before painting.  It would be a major drag to see it peel after your time and money spent on prepping it.



Mike Mumma

Polycarp

High temp

I know several people have said they've used low temp enamel or even latex with no trouble, but they aren't going to last long .. well, long in steam system terms. I'll give you my experience from historic site surveys.



Latex *will* eventually peel. It might last as long as 15 years before then if it was a quality job, but it will peel.



Enamel seems to last quite a bit longer, but it will flake off.



Actual radiator paint - what we would call "high heat" - is in another class altogether. I've not seen paint jobs that I can verify are over 40 years old, but all of those have been in really good shape unless they were compromised by really bad applications or pretty significant steam leaks.



You can brush it or spray it. Surface prep is really important, but when you use high-heat paint, you don't need to prime because it was meant to adhere directly to metal (although read the label for info about multiple coats, there might be between coat prep). I like engine paint just because it is available in more colors and finishes than high-heat bar-b-que paint or most other high-heat enamels.



You might also check with the guys who powder-coat engine parts. That is probably the highest quality finish you can get on metal and it will have no problem with the heat. And you don't have the same kind of off-gassing while it cures.





When you think about all it takes to get a radiator out and to prep it for paint, I don't think 15 years is nearly long enough of a life-span. Stick with the high-heat paint.

ttekushan_3

Allback paint from Sweden

I have been using Allback linseed paint from Sweden. It doesn't have any of the bad habits of normal linseed since it is truly washed and heat treated. It is heat treated to 800 degrees F so heat doesn't phase it. There are no chemical solvents or driers. Should last 50 years on a steam radiator. It doesn't yellow, get sticky or mold. I've seen it adhere right through oxidized paint layers. It is a revival of an ancient formula which was analyzed from samples hundreds of years old.



Despite its natural contents, you really need good ventilation when it cures. It is also a very slow curing process, but this is one of the reasons it lasts so long.



I have nothing to do with the company but discovered their product when I was doing window restoration and became disgusted with the terrible longevity of the newer paints and their utter inability to truly protect the substrate.



It is sold through Viking Sales in NY.



-Terry

JJ_4

Metallic...Krylon or the like...

I know the "purists" argue against metallic because of its reflective (internal reflection diminishes output) properties, but this is what I have used successfullly on my steam radiators.  Spray a light coat of your selected color just enough to provide an even look, doesn't have to be high temp.  My radiators were either un-painted original or any old paint was completely worn off.  The first time I did this was 12 years ago or so (1996, I guess that makes it 14!, time flies) and it held up nicely.  No bubbling, too thin for that, and I only repainted recently because I wanted to change color and it had worn thin (flaked off and disppated in the air I guess, and, no, I am not worried about inhaling this stuff because it was so gradual it can't be any worse than living in central Denver). 

4Barrel

painting results - rustoleum hammered gold

thought i'd post some pics of the resulting paint job. thanks for the posts on this topic. i did take my time with this, rinsing the interior to remove the stripper residue (i hooked a garden hose to a hot water supply and purged the radiator - took a number of cycles, but eventually worked), and then used mineral spirits on the exterior. I let it drain thoroughly and then let it stand for a few days before starting the painting process. I sprayed it with about 5 thin coats, separating each coat by a day or two to allow for drying. I used a dolly to lay the rad on its side, this helped prevent the paint from running, and it allowed me to spray the underside. then i flipped the rad over and started the process over on the other side. I did a final touch up with the rad standing straight up. then i let it sit for another week. in all, it took 3 cans to do the job.



i've got the rad installed now, and for the first day of heating, it smelled pretty bad, but this cleared up pretty quick. i'm pleased with the color and finish of the rustoleum hammered. i picked up an extra can in case i need to touch up.

K Penniman

Nice rad!

We did the same with a couple of our Rococo's - what an elegant way to heat the house!  Nice work.  Let's hope the paint lasts a lifetime. 

Pat_M

same rules/products for the pipes?

Wanting to paint some of the steam system pipes in our basement. Not the sends or returns right by the boiler, but some spans that heat a rec room and laundry room.



Same paint products as recommended in this thread for radiators? THanks.

Luv'nsteam

Basement steam pipes

The ONLY steam pipe that should not be insulated are radiators and pipes designed to be radiators (pipe that was once insulated but is now not insulated is not pipe designed to be a radiator-uninsulated pipe losses heat five times faster than insulated pipe).  Bear that in mind when deciding what to paint and not to paint.  It is ok to paint and then insulate, however.



Same process and paint can be used for either.  Modify according to location of pipe and accessibility.



Mike

4Barrel

if the pipes you speak of

if the pipes are not insulated, i would recommend insulation over the painting. will save you some bucks, definitely. made a big difference for my system. plus it looks better.