Which vent is bigger

steam-rookie

Does any one know which vent has a larger venting capacity(cfm)?

The Watts 3/4 SVS 3  OR  the gorton #2

Unknown

Vent Size

According to the venting capacity table in Gerry Gill & Steve Pajek's excellent book,

"Balancing Steam Systems Using a Venting Capacity Chart",  http://www.heatinghelp.com/products/Books/5/146/Balancing-Steam-Systems-Using-a-Vent-Capacity-Chart-by-Gerry-Gill-and-Steve-Pajek



the Gorton #1 has 4.7 times the venting capacity of the Watts SVS 3. The Gorton #2 has 3 to 4 times the venting capacity of the Gorton #1. If you use the conservative figure of 3 times that would mean the Gorton #2 has over 14+ times the venting capacity of a Watts SVS3.

- Rod

Gordo

That Watts SVS 3

Is a "toy" vent.  It's an unfunny  joke.



Go with a Gorton #2.

steam-rookie

Thank you

I will be ordering the gorton #2`s

I will be changing my menorah configuration as follows:

All black pipe

Shorten the nipple from the boiler to accommodate the gorton #2`s

Use reducing tee`s and el`s

QUESTIONS:

Should I go with the menorah configuration, or, should I put both #2`s on one side, antler style?

The current nipple from the boiler is 41/2 inches. I will be changing that to a 2 inch, then an elbow, then maybe a 4 inch nipple horizontal to the vents. How does that sound?

I am worried that the very short nipple out of the boiler will cause condensate to enter my brand new 100 dollar vents.

How worried should I be? Will the addition of the 4 inch nipple on the horizontal, after the elbow, help with this worry in any way?

jpf321

union?

no union?

reducing t's and el's? why? what size pipe nipple is that? 3/4? 1/2? ..

keep in mind that 1/2pipe can only support 2pcs of Gorton #2. it sounds like that's all you're adding so you should be fine.



i really wouldn't worry too much about the height .. if you want to be safer, you can put hairpin bend in it...the point here is to keep flying chunks of crud and possible water hammer from having near straightline access to your vents. and air really doesn't much care about the hairpin bends.

steam-rookie

New configuration

I don't think I have the room (height) for a union to fit in.

The nipple is 3/4 inch

Would the first elbow be considered the hairpin turn?

This is my plan:

2 inch 3/4 nipple -- 3/4 elbow -- 4 inch 3/4 nipple -- 3/4 reducing tee -- 1 1/2 3/4 nipple -- 3/4 reducing elbow.

The gorton #2`s will emerge from the tee and the elbow at the end.

I need to reduce to accommodate the 1/2 inch tap on the gortons

How does this plan sound?

jim_72

Yes

If you follow the photo posted in your first thread you will be fine. Just pitch the antler ever so slightly towards the main(is does not take much ) so it drains any moisture. So the answer is Yes

jpf321

why not

why not reduce first ..

3/4->1/2 bushing

1/2close nipple

(UNION + 1/2close nipple) OPTIONAL

1/2 elbow

then your arm .. all in 1/2"

you want to END with a T and a plug (or nipple & cap) .. in case you ever want to add more. don't end in an elbow.

steam-rookie

Building an antler

Quote by jpf321:   "why not reduce first "



This question has been asked over and over again in regard to plumbing pipes with water in them. It comes up very often when plumbing a shower with 3/4 copper, and fixtures with 1/2 connections. The most common answer is keep everything 3/4, and reduce at the fixture.

This is my reasoning for the reducing tee and elbows.

I have also been considering using an additional elbow in the very beginning. Two elbows will change the direction of the antler, but will also give me the slight pitch adjustment that I need.

While we are on the topic of antler direction, I wonder if it makes a difference if the air flows with the return, or, backwards against it, or in my case, with the 2 elbows, perpendicular to the flow? Do you know what I mean?

Lets discuss both topics, reducing,  and antler direction,  in relation to flow

Unknown

Direction

Direction - Ideally the direction of the "antler" is towards the flow. This means water coming down the pipe must do a 180 degree turn to go towards the vent. As the pipe parallels the main going in this direction means any water drains away from the vent (provided of course that the main piping is properly pitched!) 

Pipe Size- Pipe sizing depends a lot on how many/size of the vents you are placing on the antler. A 1/2 pipe will carry the capacity of 2 Gorton #2s

3/4 inch of course far more.

- Rod

jim_72

answers

Reducing- keep piping as large as possible                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Antler direction-   No matter, air that is being displaced by steam will find it's way out -common sense would suggest the less bends all the better but the difference as it pertains to a 12" antler vs 6"  that is positioned left- right or parallel is zero.

HenryT

Antler pics?

JPF321, do you have a picture of your antler set up? just wanted to see how it looks.

What does a union do compared to a open nipple?

Thanks

jpf321

please stand by for pics.

the union allows easy service of the venting antler .. unions are designed to be serviceable even after a long time of dormancy .. threaded nipples directly into a fitting may tend to rust in place or be otherwise very difficult to remove. 

jpf321

pictures uploaded

funny thing .. until I took these pics, i really had no idea what things looked like inside .. i can see that I can straighten up the angles a bit .. the opening is very tight, i can just barely get the vent antlers into the hole ..



another reason i realizes that i MUST use a union, i would not be able to screw on the entire antler as a unit .. i must have it where the antler is in fixed position and the union nutis the only thing that turns.



the antler pics are last 11 pics of my system pics...link in signature.

HenryT

Thank you.

Thanks!