Piping puzzle

Brian_74

I apologize for all of my trap posts. I appreciate the help and think I'm nearing the end of the project. Here's my question:



I have not been able to open this trap in place. So I'd like to remove it and try to open it on my workbench. If that doesn't work, I'll replace the whole thing.



I can loosen the spud (nut on the right). The problem is that the hole that pipe A goes through does not give it any wiggle room, so I can't move it to remove the trap.



Things don't look any better on the left side of the trap. Pipe B is held in place by pipe C and the unlabeled pipe that both B and C connect to.



Other information: A goes through what used to be the end of the house, so I think it's more than just a joist or I would make the hole bigger.



C goes into a trap on the end of a massive radiator. I've prefer to not mess with any of that.



I'm thinking that since everything is held in place, I can use more torque than I normally would feel comfortable using.



Any suggestions?

Robbie

Try this trick

Old mechanics trick to try- If you are trying to remove what looks to be a valve with a union style fitting on either side at the upper right of the photo, take about a 16oz to 24oz ball peen hammer, and, using the flat or "peen" side, give a few sharp whacks to as many of the flats of the nut as you can. What this does is jars the threads, and usually releases the tension that has developed from tightening. I have used this technique many, many times, on everything from recalcitrant brake reservoir caps in a 1946 Plymouth, to the large unions on my old boiler pipes when taking it apart.

Once you have given a few sharp whacks, you should start to feel some movement when you put a pipe wrench on it.

You don't need to beat hell out of it, but just strong, sharp blows against the flats of the nut.

Robbie

nicholas bonham-carter

loosing old unions

i think the hammer method would be successful, with a bit of heat on the joints. i would also sugest using a wrench with flats, like a crescent wrench to get the right amount of torque to the joint.--nbc

MikeyB

Heat

Try heating up the ftgs/threads and then put a candle on the threads, the heat will wick the candle right into the joints, it works real well

Brian_74

Not sure I'm following

It's probably my fault, but let me try again. I want to open the trap. I can't seem to do it while it's in place. I've used penetrating oil, and I have tapped on the side of the trap with a hammer. There's not a lot of room to use a long wrench to get some torque. Although I've been using a socket wrench and an adjustable wrench, I think that the nut on top of the trap is getting rounded.



I've come up with a plan B, and would like some feedback. Here's the plan:



Cut where the blue line is.

Remove pipe D (there's a union out of the photograph)

I'll then be able to remove the trap and replace it.

To get it all back together, I'll need to put a union where the blue line is. The pipe I'm proposing to cut is 4'' from elbow to T. If you include the threads inside the fittings, it's probably 5'' then.

MikeyB

trap

Hey Brian, that will work as long as you have enough room to fit in a couple of nipples and a union, dry fit these first before cutting out that nipple, also if you have the system running does the top of the trap get hot? if so try to lubricate while it is hot (instead of using a torch) and you should be able to break it free

Brian_74

I'm willing to try.

Thanks for the suggestion, MikeyB. I don't know if it gets hot. I assume it does, but I'll check it out and try your suggestion. I have been applying Kroil for about a week, but I'm up for anything.

MikeyB

Traps

Good luck Brian, let us know how you make out, Also while its hot and the wax/penetrating oil is working its way into the threads on the cap try to tighten the cap first, believe it or not this might "break" the seal and you should be able to unscrew it from there