drop-in replacement for a Trane B1 trap?

Brian_74

I have a Trane B1 (angle pattern) trap that I cannot open for the life of me. I've soaked it in penetrating oil for several days. This morning I disconnected it, put in a vice, and using a cheater bar tried to open it. I ended up moving my workbench. Since I need to replace the internals, I thought I'd just replace the whole thing rather than mess with it any more. I'm thinking of a Barnes & Jones 122A as a replacement but only because there's a B&J distributor locally. Is there a better one either in terms of quality or fit?

gerry gill

in my humble opinion

trap quality rates like this, mepco(dunham) #1...cost twice as much and lasts friggin 80 years..monash younker #2, haven't had any fail yet..sterling #3 designed to fail closed just like the monash..barnes and jones #4..but 4th place isn't bad cosidering whats out there..

Gordo

The B&J 122 Trap

Will fit on the same spud nut and occupy the same dimensions as a Trane B-1.  And if  Mr. Gill says it is a halfway decent trap, well, that's good enough for me. 

Brian_74

Do traps really last 80 years?

Thanks very much. This is helpful. I've been looking at traps on ebay just to familiarize myself with the way they look and what brands are out there, but knowing what a pro thinks is good is much better!



I've been assuming that traps go bad after 3 or 4 years. The other traps I've asked about (the Ideal ones) are in fact 80 years old. Can I test them by putting them in boiling water, like what you'd do with an automotive thermostat?

Brian_74

I think I found my mistake

Thanks, Gordo. I had been looking at the B&J 122A but I thought that it was 1'' longer than what I needed. Since you suggested it, though, I figure I had made a mistake. I took the trap off again and remeasured it. I think I found the source of my error. The A dimension (see diagram) *includes* the brass part that remains attached to the pipe, right? I was measuring just the trap in my hand. That part is an inch long.

Gordo

That "Brass Part"

the one with the free nut, that remains attached to the radiator side, can be referred to as the "spud".  These spud nuts made by the various manufacturers very seldom fit the male threads on another manufacturer's trap...they are most certainly NOT standardized.  B&J seemed to make the conscious decision to design their trap to fit in place of a Trane B-1 trap, spud nut and all. 



 It is indeed helpful when you do not need to remove that spud.



Trane B-1 traps are what I call a "surprise package".  One is never sure what's going to be inside...integral bellows, integral seat....integral bellows, removable seat....removable bellows, removable seat...integral bellows with removable pin, and so forth.  

Brian_74

Does it matter if the spud is on a pipe?

The particular spud is on a pipe rather than on a radiator. I'm thinking about using a Mepco trap based on Mr. Gill's rating. Is it going to be a pain to remove that spud?



BTW, I wanted to be sure I understood you so I did an image search of "spud." People do weird things with potatoes.

Steamhead

No it doesn't

the dimensions are the same whether on a pipe or a radiator.



What you have there looks like a "crossover trap" which is piped between the steam main and dry return, and acts as an air vent for the steam main. The B&J 122 or MEPCO 1 series traps will move more air than the B1. This helps vent the main faster. If you have more than one steam main, and they're the same length and diameter, replace the crossover traps on both with faster ones and watch how much better it works.

Brian_74

Traps go to baseboard radiators

Thanks, Steamhead. That B-1 and the straight pattern B-1 I just started another thread about (http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/129334/Piping-puzzle) go to baseboard radiators in an addition. I think that I'm going to have to replace that trap, too, so you've made me feel better about it.



Faster would be nice, but I'm mainly looking forward to quieter.

InsideOilDave

Try heating the casing

Try heating the casing of the steam trap. The casing should expand faster than the cover and thus loosen up. Be careful not to heat anyone point to much. Ideally use a heat gun, if not an even touch with a torch may do it.