Mod cons and radiant questions

Steve_210

I've just installed  a staple up radiant heat at my home, using slant Fin extruded aluminum plates. It is air tested but not hooked up yet. I've read somewhere that the spray foam is best for this install. Any advise greatly appreciated.

I also want to change my Burnham IN5 for a mod con. Leaning towards Veissman. We have used Weil McLain ultra on a few jobs in the past but never a Veissman. I've just heard great things about Veissman. Again appreciate any advise.

Last question - sorry guys. I want to put my hot water storage tank away from the mod con, probably 30 linear ft of supply and 30 linear ft of return. People have mentioned they don't feel this is efficient, surely if I insulate the run's well it should't make that much difference. This is a basement renovation and everything will be well insulated with new windows.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Paul Pollets

Mod Con and staple up

R19 or R21 batts work well under the application.  Leave a 1-2" space between the bottom of the plates and the insulation. Spray foam obviously has a higher R value, but makes the joist bays inaccessible.



You'll like the Viessmann Vitodens. I prefer the WB2-200 series, which has more features. The Vitodens 100  works well for a single temp system.   The length of piping between the boiler and the indirect tank should be no more than 15 feet!  30 feet could be a problem, but the newer models of the Vitodens use a separate pump for the tank, which could be sized for the increased length.  Min. pipe size to tank coil is 1"; 11/4 for 120g tanks.  Insulate the piping with a min of 3/4" wall neoprene to keep the heat in the piping and reduce recovery times.



The picture below shows a Vitodens 200, 80g VitoCell indirect, with the boiler set up for wall panel radiators, an air handler HW coil, and radiant floor heat.