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Best Alternate Orientation For Antler ?
SteamHeat
Member Posts: 159
My main vents leak. This is probably because my wet return is plaqued up with bioslime like the arteries of a salami addict. :-) Compounding this is that the end cap on my dry return has a 70 year rusted in place cast face bushing limiting the connection to 1/4 inch npt. I am using 3/8" npt nipples and tees and 3/8" Gorton #1 's. The final connection is a 3/8 to 1/4 reducing coupling. The steam is forcing condensate back into the valves and so they leak.
I am going to try elevating each of the Gorton #1 's on 2-1/2" of 3/8" nipple and coupler. But then I cannot clear my beam. I have to turn the antler either 90 degrees or 180 degrees. If the antler currently points West aimed back along the main, which direction is best as an alternate 90 degrees to South or 180 degrees to East ?
Thanks.
I am going to try elevating each of the Gorton #1 's on 2-1/2" of 3/8" nipple and coupler. But then I cannot clear my beam. I have to turn the antler either 90 degrees or 180 degrees. If the antler currently points West aimed back along the main, which direction is best as an alternate 90 degrees to South or 180 degrees to East ?
Thanks.
0
Comments
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Antler
Don't worry too much about orientation. Drainage is more important than orientation. I would use 1/2 pipe/tees/fittings for the antler as coming out of the 1/8 inch as this should help slow the velocity of water. If you have a problem getting drainage slope, use elbows together (Street & regular - as a universal) coming off the main. The double elbows will also help slow down any water. Try to put the vent(s) in a position where you can get some height above the main to help drainage. - Rod0 -
Do I Understand Correctly ?
Then you are saying one elbow turns from vertical to horizontal and the second would turn from West pointing to South pointing for example.
Since my vents are 3/8" I would need a 3/8" to 1/2" reducing coupler for each vent. Those and the 1/2" nipples and tee's are going to add weight to my antler on its 1/4" npt connection into that cast face bushing. I think I am going to need to strap the assembly to support it and give it proper pitch. If I have to do that should I go up to 3/4" nipples and tees and elbows to give the water and steam even more separation?
Thanks for all your help always.0 -
Vent
The first elbow changes from vertical to horizontal (you can orient that is any direction you want (north ,south etc) and the second elbow (street) allows adjustment up and down to give you slope. It seems to me the best solution would to just tap a new vent location into the main. That way you could locate it back from the end of the main and have a decent size opening for air and drainage. Anything else (bigger pipes etc.)is rather ,well, "Mickey Mouse" and is not likely to work satisfactorily. Drilling a tapping is easy and if you blow it, you can use JB Weld to strengthen the fittings. - Rod0 -
Now I See.
Thanks Rod. My main runs through a wall just before it gets to the endcap and becomes the dry return, so drilling a hole back from the end would still be a very tight spot, close to the wall. There wouldn't be much room for a menorah. After I recover from the huge monetary hit I took with the boiler replacement, my pro is going to replace the end cap and wet return. The new steel endcap will have a 3/4" tap and the new wet return will be copper pipe. It will still be a tight spot, but at least the tap will be big and the pipe will be clear. I still will have to orient the antler South or East pointing instead of back towards the wall. I'll probably still leave the vents elevated if this experiment works. The adapters for the 1/4 inch connection I am doing now is just for this heating season, I hope. :-)0 -
Location of the main vent.
Anywhere between the last radiator lateral and the end of the main will work fine for the main vent. It doesn't have to be 15 inches from the end or on the end of the main. - Rod0 -
You Would Smile If You Saw The Layout Here.
The last radiator lateral runs to elbows which are half inside the wall. Also half inside the wall is the Tee that connects the vertical riser for that last radiator and the final piece of main (only 17 inches long) going to the endcap. They left no room for anything really. On top of that the beam is right above that final piece of main and there is a drop ceiling frame member surrounding the Tee and vertical riser. It is like shoving an elephant into a phone booth. :-)0 -
Enjoy Your Holiday.
I did not realize you were away visiting. Extra bonus thanks to you for taking time out to answer questions for us. Enjoy your Holiday. Regards.0 -
Thanks!
Thanks! Have a very Merry Christmas! - Rod0
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