Broken radiator nipple screw - water pouring out

Chall

I bled my hot water radiator and when I inserted the key to turn it off, the internal screw was popped out of the nipple. It won't go back in and the radiator started to leak hot water over the floor. The protruding tail on the nipple is also gone.

The internal screw came completely out, it ends in a very fine point. We duck taped it, but are in an argument about adding a vise to hold the tape. I don't think the tape will hold hot water under pressure, but my sister won't let me add a vise to the end of the nipple. Bottom line: what can we use that will hold until the plumber comes (and what happened here?). I don't want to try and force the internal screw back in as it is obviously well designed and I don't the inner workings and think I am missing more (like a collar?) pieces.

Thanks in advance

Timco

bleeder valve

Ace hardware and many other suppliers sell bleeder valves. You can also just buy a 1/8" plug and unthread the bleeder and replace it with that for now. No big deal, these are soft brass and do weaken with time. Bigger issue is why do you need to bleed that often? May also be called a coin vent.



Tim

Chall

why bleeding so much - something is out of whack

Okay with the parts purchase, but I will still have to call the plumber in since I don't want to screw around in this weather (Im in NY). The bigger issue of bleeding?  It's an old house and air is probably getting into the system somewhere. We just converted a very old gravity fed system to a pump system when we replaced the 1926 boiler last year. The plumber put the pump on the wrong side (the return on the radiator) and had no interest in insulating jackets, but he is a good man. I read Pumping Away before the conversion and I know I should have mentioned looking for and removing the "blockers" on the upper floor. But I didn't have the courage to mention the pump placement and am afraid that touching anything it will break.

bill_105

No - No - No

There's not enough duck tape (duck??)  in the world for this fix. For this one you need real professional advice.  And, where better to get it than here? Now your gonna get a trade secret.

First, go get about 50, that's right 50, containers of stop leak at your local auto parts store. Now, there's an intrinsic value on that number of, about 50.

 Now turn off the electrical power to the boiler. This, as you probably well know, is to prevent the much dreaded, serious injury or death, (I hate those).

Okay, now turn off the water supply to the boiler and close every valve you can find on the thing. Hey, shut off the fuel supply, ya know, why take a chance? Drain the boiler. To get all 50 stop leaks in the boiler turn the relief valves drain pipe upward, have someone hold open the lever, and you pour all 50 into the pipe. Wash it all down with a little water, or whatever liquid you mght have handy!

Now, to resume heat production merely reverse the steps taken to have gotten you this far. 

 Fire the thing up. You should be fine. And if any leak is detected, just return all 50 containers to where you purchased them for a full refund. You should have no problem.

If this fails, go get more duck tape. Best of luck!