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Power burners and vaporstats
Patrick_North
Member Posts: 249
Am coming to terms with a less than ideal one pipe steam install (this of the "Funky Header.") and have moved on to controls.
Had a vaporstat installed with the new boiler. The first one proved to be a dud- we came home from Thanksgiving weekend to no heat and the vaporstat clicking on and off. Installer wasn't convinced initially because my 3# gauge said 0.5#. Course this was because he had taken off my (code) 30# gauge and replaced it with the 3#er I had (no pigtail) and baked (steamed?) it so it <em>always</em> ready 0.5#. Finally got him to replace both and we're having the same problem. I know these controls are notoriously crappy, but I thought I remembered a recent thread on calibrating them. Anyone remember this? Or am I just hoping I remember this?
Also, this is a Smith with a Carlin EZ burner. I wasn't prepared for how LOUD the thing would be (I think it's largely echo from the tine exhaust!) but I took a look and found that the air intake aperture was set at 100%. As in "no one's adjusted this for optimal firing." A quick look at Carlin's site suggests that 75% is the max, air band setting depending on orifice, I guess. I have no intention of messing with this myself. Could this be contributing to the noise? Could this just be a sign that the burner wasn't dialed in? What direct questions can I ask of my installer to insure that this thing is set up correctly?
Thanks,
Patrick
Had a vaporstat installed with the new boiler. The first one proved to be a dud- we came home from Thanksgiving weekend to no heat and the vaporstat clicking on and off. Installer wasn't convinced initially because my 3# gauge said 0.5#. Course this was because he had taken off my (code) 30# gauge and replaced it with the 3#er I had (no pigtail) and baked (steamed?) it so it <em>always</em> ready 0.5#. Finally got him to replace both and we're having the same problem. I know these controls are notoriously crappy, but I thought I remembered a recent thread on calibrating them. Anyone remember this? Or am I just hoping I remember this?
Also, this is a Smith with a Carlin EZ burner. I wasn't prepared for how LOUD the thing would be (I think it's largely echo from the tine exhaust!) but I took a look and found that the air intake aperture was set at 100%. As in "no one's adjusted this for optimal firing." A quick look at Carlin's site suggests that 75% is the max, air band setting depending on orifice, I guess. I have no intention of messing with this myself. Could this be contributing to the noise? Could this just be a sign that the burner wasn't dialed in? What direct questions can I ask of my installer to insure that this thing is set up correctly?
Thanks,
Patrick
0
Comments
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vaporstat
Maybe this is the thread you're looking for on vaporstat adjustment issues?
[url=http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/128249/why-do-Honeywell-vaporstats-suck-so-badly]http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/128249/why-do-Honeywell-vaporstats-suck-so-badly0 -
Did he do a combustion test?
if not, that could contribute to the noise. Ideally that burner should be no louder than an oil burner.
Also, did they use the burner with the air tube assembly which is specific to that boiler? Look to see if the mounting flange is welded on or not. Post a pic if you're not sure.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Patrick what size boiler?
The installation instructions that come with the Carlin do not apply to the band setting when it is attached to a Smith boiler. 100% maybe what it calls for. Sound deadening on the ceiling over the boiler maybe all you can do. This is the one issue people who had gravity vent dry base boilers have with the power burners. When I install them replacing existing gas power burner converted boilers or oil boilers there is seldom an issue as the home owners are use to the noise. Quiet will cost about 3 to 6 percent more in fuel. Some people are willing to sacrifice the fuel for the noise others get use to the noise and enjoy the savings.Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating0 -
It's the G8-S-6, right?
I checked all the pics I have of our installs of this boiler, and the shutters don't look like they're all the way open. I'm pretty sure we took the pics after we set up the burners with the analyzer.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
The Smith I have in my picture
that is set at 92% open after analyzer testing. I know because I went by the manual for start up and nearly cooked my O2 sensor. I called Carlin, yes they are great people, and they said disregard the air band settings in the manual and start around 90% on the G8-6. I am not saying they tested Patricks. I also ended up with a meter the gas company said was fine not supplieing enough gas. I think saying a 210 meter will not work with the G8-6 is not a hard conclusion to reach. The main from the street was coked up too. But in the end its works well and the home owner is happy.Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating0 -
It's a G-8 Five section...
... despite the two takeoffs.
If the noise is legit, I'm fine with it. (The first time the wife said "what is that noise?" I replied, "that's the sound of efficiency.") But because it looked like the shutter hadn't been touched, because no combustion #'s were recorded on the burner or given to me, etc. etc. I thought I'd ask.
Arches- yes, that's the thread, thanks!
Steamhead- Is the mounting flange welded on? You mean welded onto the boiler somehow? In that case, no, the flange is bolted onto the boiler.
Charlie, when you say "a 210 meter will not work with the G8-6" are you talking about the regulator on my streetside meter? The gas company replaced my meter last year as well as the line in from the street so I'd guess everything is functioning "like new." Are you saying I might not be able to get adequate gas to the boiler?
Thanks, all,
Patrick0 -
Gs5-8 setting
I was refferring to the meter size in the home. The original meter on this install was rated 210 KBTU's and the new boiler has an input of 245 KBTU's . The owner, contractor and myself told the gas company about the new boiler and were all told that the 210 meter would be fine. It was not. The Gas company came a few days later and changed it out and cleared the supply line of 100 years of build up while they were at it. I feel if 245 KBTU's is set at 92 then 196 KBTU's should be set lower. Have them come back and set it right and the unit will quiet down some.Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating0 -
Gotcha, thanks.
... and Steamhead, the tube is bolted to the blower, not welded.
Thanks,
Patrick0 -
What I meant
was is the flange (part that bolts onto the front cast-iron plate of the boiler) welded to the tube that connects the burner chassis to the boiler's front plate?All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0
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