Laars Endurance EBP flow switch

CS

Love this site, amazed at how well-written some of the articles are.



I have an Endurance EBP 175 that was installed in 2004. We have occasional lock-out issues, but that had been it. We were leaving for a 5 day road trip and I went to the mech. closet to turn off our DHW recirc. ( have a whole-house water softener prior to this as well) and noticed a stale water smell. I opened the panel and saw that the black plastic flow switch was leaking slowly. I cranked the fitting a bit and it stopped.



When we returned from our trip we no longer had DHW unless the radiant heat was on or if I cycled the power. After a fair bit of troubleshooting and reading the manual I figured out that the flow switch stopped working (jumping the contacts turned on the boiler recirculator and we had DHW). I see from other posts that this is a well-known problem and that Laars is on there 4th version.



I took the flow switch out to see if it was something simple and the magnet just doesn't activate the switch anymore. Also the little paddle mount just fell apart, so this whole thing is going to fail completely soon.



The new replacment kit R2028200-

<a href="http://www.parts4heating.com/Laars-R2028200-Sika-Flow-Switch-Replacement-Kit-n-p/r2028200.htm">http://www.parts4heating.com/Laars-R2028200-Sika-Flow-Switch-Replacement-Kit-n-p/r2028200.htm</a>

is about $200 and will involve a heck of a lot of cutting/desoldering and soldering since the plumber made things really busy right outside the cabinet. This new kit replaces the simple inline valve and adds the angled piece to get it out of the cabinet in case it fails and wrecks the blower controls or wiring down below.



I am real short on cash now so would like to spend less.



The direct replacement (2400-542)) is here - <a href="http://www.parts4heating.com/Laars-2400-542-Flow-Switch-p/2400-542.htm">http://www.parts4heating.com/Laars-2400-542-Flow-Switch-p/2400-542.htm</a>

This seems to be an improvement over mine since it is metal and would involve no cutting or soldering I think. Does anyone know what is wrong with it?



There is also a newer replacement 2400-542N-

<a href="http://www.parts4heating.com/product-p/2400-542n.htm">http://www.parts4heating.com/product-p/2400-542n.htm</a>

I see that the 2400-542n is a lot cheaper and would be less work, but more than the 2400-542.



As a side note, my existing flow switch has no gaskets and is using a face seal (like pictured in the 2400-542). I can't believe it lasted this long!



So, I'd like to use the 2400-542 since it involves the least work or the 542N if I must but really don't want to use the new kit.



Advice please!

CS

anyone have advice?

been on hold with Laars for ages now...

Unknown

My advice

It sounds like you keep an eye on your system so I would go ahead and use the 2400-542 for now. It's definitely an improvement from the plastic one and it should last longer but just keep an eye on it. It is a hassle to open the cover to check it out but better than replacing the inducer when the flow switch fail and spews water everywhere.



When you get back into the chips, then go ahead and install the new one and do the plumbing needed to adapt.

Unknown

Joannie

from Laars is usually here,,,, I`m sure she could help.

Joannie

Flow Switch

Sorry about the hold time today.  We're being hit with flu season here and have personnel out sick, but the tech people are keeping up with the calls the best they can.

The best replacement is the kit that sits outside the boiler.  The metal one sporadically experienced what is called "zincification", which is a reaction with some water types.....although we called in experts in this, we were never really able to determine with much specifics what type of water was reacting.  So, although there are plenty of the metal ones out there that work fine, some zincified and failed.  That is why we went for the latest design.  Some online wholesalers still have stock of the metal switch that they are still selling.

Send me an email at jmishou@laars.com if you'd like and I'll get it to the service manager for you.

I hope this helps.

Joannie

DanHolohan

Joannie,

you rock. 

CS

Have a solution

I am buying a flow switch, but not any of the ones I posted since the IL Sung plated brass one sounds inferior, the 2400-542N requires sweat fittings and doing some difficult in situ cutting and the kit is a huge pain. I'll let you know when I get it in.



BTW, someone at Laars told me that the plated brass one mostly had problems in the NE US because of a water additive, so many other locales are OK, but I'd rather get a higher end part.

CS

Fixed

Got the part in, but it turns out the supplier doesn't usually sell directly to the public so he asked I not say where I got it. He only told me this after the fact, not sure why he sold to me, but was glad to only spend $54 including shipping.



What I found was a metal-bodied flow switch that had the same 1/2" BSPP threads as the plastic one and also had a 2.5" face to face dimension - so it was a direct replacement, no cutting/soldering needed. I'm going to place some sheet metal in the cabinet just in case it fails, given that the $180 part (and MANY hours of labor) relocates the flow switch outside the cabinet and there was a past concern about leaks onto the blower motor.



I'm surprised this isn't offered on the various supplier's websites, since they have things that are close and could sell what I bought.

Slimpickins

good idea

I'm glad you got it fixed. Good idea with the sheet metal protecting the inducer. Another idea might be one of those battery operated water alarms to put on the bottom of the cabinet.

WA1978

HELP - LAARS ENDURANCE SHUTS DOWN IN LOCKOUT MODE EVERY DAY!

We have a Laars Endurance Combination Boiler.  For the past couple of months - the boiler shuts down and goes into Lockout (LO) mode at least once a day.  We live in the moutains - and being winter time - this is a huge concern. We have been through 4 plumbers and none have any suggestions beside to get a new boiler.  When the plumbers contact the manuf - the manuf says "good luck".  The plumber has performed all 6 tests suggested to run when it goes into LO mode - everything comes back normal.  Anyone have any suggestions??? We cant afford to get a new boiler! ;0(

Joannie

Contact Information

If you'd like to email me your information and your plumber's contact information, we'll get a hold of him.  I don't receive the tech calls, but I hear them on the phone all day long helping people, and I haven't heard the "good luck" attitude described, but we'll straighten it out and get your boiler working correctly again.  Email the contact information to jmishou@laars.com.  It would be helpful to have the full model and serial number, as well.

Thanks,

Joannie

Laars Heating Systems Company

noVt

laars flow swithch

Hi- i have an '02 Endurance- same issue with flow switch..called Laars and they sent me the old type (SUNG) switch-- didnt help.. now they say i NEED to put in new type with cutting/solder,etc and say they wound never use SUNG-(however, they sent me the SUNG)? who do we trust ?