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Rod-Here are my picures requested.

Here you go. Let me know if you need any more angles. Thanks!


  • Unknown
    edited October 2009
    Boiler Piping

    Hi Brain - The layout looks pretty good. I don't see anything really wrong (LOL -I won't comment on the copper!)  The big test is does it work ?! 

    The  following  are just observations. Don't consider them as faults with the system.

    1.  I think I'd have used both steam ports in the boiler as it would have slowed down the exit velocity of the steam, theoretically resulting in dryer steam.

    2. I really can't see it all that well in the picture but your connection between the return and the Hartford Loop looks a bit long (See attached picture). The idea is to keep the connection between the elbow on the return and the tee as short as possible so the returning condensate doesn't get a chance to build up velocity and crash into the opposite inner wall of the tee. If you experience water hammer at the end of a steam cycle this is likely the cause. (Just thought I'd mention it in case that happens)

    3. Since copper is a very good heat conductor, I'd insulate the equalizer down to the return waterline Also insulate the elbows on the riser. Doesn't have to be fancy. Just use some fiber glass wall insulation and some good heating duct tape. Initially my boiler piping was left bare and I was surprised at the noticeable difference when I insulated it.  I'm now considering insulating  my returns. Heat not lost in the condensate is fuel saved and with the price of fuel sneaking up every bit counts.

    What are the pipes connected to the boiler leading under the ground? I don't see any pumps etc.

    Even with the copper things look fine (if everything is working okay). I'd just leave it the way it is (especially since you have a friend who will guarantee it and fix things if they  come apart :)  The copper might be a problem in the future when you are selling the house, depending on how sharp the home inspector is.  The steam pressure is low so if a joint break,s all you will have is a steam leak and usually you have some indication if things are going bad. Your header  riser  configuration looks pretty straight forward so if you wanted to do it in steel pipe at some time it should be quite easy.

    - Rod
  • brian_44
    brian_44 Member Posts: 59
    Thanks for the feedback and input


    As far as the system working...everything does work just fine. Everything runs nicely and the unit is properly sized. (The old one was a beast.) Thanks to your input on other posts, you might see a nice antler with a Gorton #2 vent. That improved the air evacuation in a major way. Thanks for that too.

    On the Hartford Loop, the length from the pipe to the corner of the elbow is about 3 3/4 inches. At this point, I don't hear any water hammer there.  I'll go ahead and insulate those other portions you mention. I have extra insulation left to do that.

    The pipes from the boiler under the ground are for a hot water loop to baseboard heating in our basement. There is a pump several feet away. 

    Thanks again for your input. Maybe after the winter (if I get brave) I'll swap out the copper above the water line with steel.  I'm thinking I might be able to do it myself, but don't want to take a chance right now with it getting colder!  I'm also going to add that additional pressure gauge you recommended to BobbyC in the near future.

    Much appreciated,


  • Low Pressure

    Hi Brian - I did see the big Gorton in the picture. They do make a big difference! , The low pressure gauge really helps out in fine tuning and you may want to add a vaporstat somewhere down the line. More pressure burns more fuel, so the lower can run your system, the more economical it is.  I'm glad it's all come together for you. Since it looks like it maybe a cold winter,it will be a nice feeling having a reliable, comfortable steam system.  Nothing beats the heat from a hot steam radiator after you come in from a cold day!

    - Rod
This discussion has been closed.