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Dunham Vapor 2 pipe. GN Homeowner. success!
TonyBal_2
Member Posts: 54
<span style="font-size:12pt">Hello friends on the Wall! GN Homeowner here.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">It’s been a while. I have a 1928 two-pipe vapor system. This is a success story thanks to you all. I am at the point now (after many hrs) of being confident in my system and how to fix it.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">My Problem Was: Very high heating bills.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">I observed single pipe vents on 5 of 17 rads (two pipe rads), and knew per DH that something was not right.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Probable Cause(s):</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Failed Traps:</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">3 crossover/vent traps at end of steam mains. 17 rad traps.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Not sure how many were failed but I doubt they had been serviced much in past 80 yrs.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Solution:</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">My pro installed 3 new crossover vent traps near boiler. I installed all new traps or cage units on the 17 rads. Much experimenting. Some dollars out the window because of quality and wrong parts etc. The B&J cage units worked best. Hercules looks good too. This has taken me many many hours. I bought a Fluke Mini 62 infrared thermometer! I’m sure most of you have something like this or better. But it is awesome for testing traps! $80. I expected leaks after my work but so far so good!</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">At first I was worried because I could not get pressure on my Vaporstat. But it was because I had a couple bad traps (open). Chase them down. Shut down some rad valves---Then I get pressure. Slow process. Fluke Mini 62. (My favorite new tool) Now I am close to all working well I think.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">It will take a cold day to get all the rads full and to get pressure up. I have my Vaporstat set at 4 oz. to cut-out 10 oz. 10 (ten) oz. pressure and and the rads are all pretty hot 200-210. Side to side hot. I have tested to get pressure but the house gets up to 76 degrees (downstairs) and family want to know what’s going on..</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Mani Vent Frozen:</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">The main vent (Dunham air eliminator) was rusted closed. Venting was done by 5 rads on the main floor that had single pipe Hoffman vents placed on them.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Solution</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">I opened up the Dunham Air Eliminator and oiled it & fixed it. Also added 3 Gorton #2 vents. Converted near main vent piping to ¾” from ½”. Removed 5 Hoffman vents and plugged with 1/8” plug on 5 rads.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">I expected to hear or feel air blowing out of the Gortons or the Dunham air eliminator. But not much that I can tell??</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">NE “End of Steam Main” Piping Mystery</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Problem</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">A section of one of the (4) end of main steam returns was vented to a condensate line, with a trap between. (Mystery Illinois steam trap). Not sure how much of a mess this caused, but it seemed to hammer. I suspect that an early remodel and doorway addition convinced someone to try this. This was a mystery.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Solution</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">We looked a variety of options (piping around obstacle). But I decided to run it all the way back to the boiler per Dunham Handbook (there was room above large doorway cavity) and added a new Dunham crossover trap near boiler. This all made me nervous but it has seemed to work very well. Pipes in separately below waterline. All end of steam main pipes get hot fast.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Condensate Line Pitch</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Problem</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">I noted some of the condensate lines in basement were slightly off correct pitch (due to home settling. (This I have fixed, another story). </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Solution</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Clevis hangers. I have added them all over and replaced the hanging straps. Clevis are more time consuming but cool and give me more flexibility on pitch.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Other:</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Pressuretrol - Pro replaced with Vaportstat and Low Pressure Gauge. This was big help.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Helped me chase down traps that were not working.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Pipe labels – Hansen pipe labels on all my pipes in basement ceiling like a HO fool. But really helps.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">I had a few rads powdercoated . man they look good.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">knock on wood. system seems to be humming pretty well! </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Thanks again!</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">I expect I'll be back of course, with some question...</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">GN</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Portland, Oregon</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">It’s been a while. I have a 1928 two-pipe vapor system. This is a success story thanks to you all. I am at the point now (after many hrs) of being confident in my system and how to fix it.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">My Problem Was: Very high heating bills.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">I observed single pipe vents on 5 of 17 rads (two pipe rads), and knew per DH that something was not right.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Probable Cause(s):</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Failed Traps:</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">3 crossover/vent traps at end of steam mains. 17 rad traps.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Not sure how many were failed but I doubt they had been serviced much in past 80 yrs.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Solution:</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">My pro installed 3 new crossover vent traps near boiler. I installed all new traps or cage units on the 17 rads. Much experimenting. Some dollars out the window because of quality and wrong parts etc. The B&J cage units worked best. Hercules looks good too. This has taken me many many hours. I bought a Fluke Mini 62 infrared thermometer! I’m sure most of you have something like this or better. But it is awesome for testing traps! $80. I expected leaks after my work but so far so good!</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">At first I was worried because I could not get pressure on my Vaporstat. But it was because I had a couple bad traps (open). Chase them down. Shut down some rad valves---Then I get pressure. Slow process. Fluke Mini 62. (My favorite new tool) Now I am close to all working well I think.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">It will take a cold day to get all the rads full and to get pressure up. I have my Vaporstat set at 4 oz. to cut-out 10 oz. 10 (ten) oz. pressure and and the rads are all pretty hot 200-210. Side to side hot. I have tested to get pressure but the house gets up to 76 degrees (downstairs) and family want to know what’s going on..</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Mani Vent Frozen:</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">The main vent (Dunham air eliminator) was rusted closed. Venting was done by 5 rads on the main floor that had single pipe Hoffman vents placed on them.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Solution</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">I opened up the Dunham Air Eliminator and oiled it & fixed it. Also added 3 Gorton #2 vents. Converted near main vent piping to ¾” from ½”. Removed 5 Hoffman vents and plugged with 1/8” plug on 5 rads.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">I expected to hear or feel air blowing out of the Gortons or the Dunham air eliminator. But not much that I can tell??</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">NE “End of Steam Main” Piping Mystery</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Problem</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">A section of one of the (4) end of main steam returns was vented to a condensate line, with a trap between. (Mystery Illinois steam trap). Not sure how much of a mess this caused, but it seemed to hammer. I suspect that an early remodel and doorway addition convinced someone to try this. This was a mystery.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Solution</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">We looked a variety of options (piping around obstacle). But I decided to run it all the way back to the boiler per Dunham Handbook (there was room above large doorway cavity) and added a new Dunham crossover trap near boiler. This all made me nervous but it has seemed to work very well. Pipes in separately below waterline. All end of steam main pipes get hot fast.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Condensate Line Pitch</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Problem</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">I noted some of the condensate lines in basement were slightly off correct pitch (due to home settling. (This I have fixed, another story). </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Solution</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Clevis hangers. I have added them all over and replaced the hanging straps. Clevis are more time consuming but cool and give me more flexibility on pitch.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Other:</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Pressuretrol - Pro replaced with Vaportstat and Low Pressure Gauge. This was big help.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Helped me chase down traps that were not working.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Pipe labels – Hansen pipe labels on all my pipes in basement ceiling like a HO fool. But really helps.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">I had a few rads powdercoated . man they look good.</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt"> </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">knock on wood. system seems to be humming pretty well! </span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Thanks again!</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">I expect I'll be back of course, with some question...</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">GN</span>
<span style="font-size:12pt">Portland, Oregon</span>
0
Comments
-
Thanks!
We're glad to help. You shouldn't have much air rushing out those vents- from what you describe it's working fine.
Let us know how much less fuel it uses this season too!All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0
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