Proper Way to Install Flush Valve in Wet Return

RobLC

I have removed all the black pipe wet returns.  There are just two pipes hanging, one at each end of the house.

Before I install new ones, I would like to install a flush valve at the right place in the return line near the boiler because it looks like most of the crud settles there.

I have plugged the boiler up best and hope not too much oxidation is taking place.

I read Dan H's description of how to do this in "<strong>Systems</strong>" section of the site and I have his "<em><span style="text-decoration:underline;">We Got Steam</span></em>" book.

I'm not doing so good at actually visualizing where this valve should go; the size of the piping; the use of ball or gate valve, etc.

Would anyone of the Pros or advanced DIYers try to answer this question?

Thank you.

RobLC

P.S. I have posted a sketch - - please excuse the crude quality - - that might help someone point to the exact place I might add this valve.

RobLC

Damn, Sorry for the sideway picture...

Here is a sketch of the boiler right side up.

nicholas bonham-carter

flushing the returns

thank goodness you straightened out the picture, as my neck was getting so stiff!!

on my system, the wet return drain is a full-port ball valve, the same dia. as the return pipe, just before the hartford loop, because that point is my lowest point. on yours, another location may be lower, or closer to a floor drain.

when you are running the boiler, why not disable the auto feeder, so you can see if you are losing water. i have a manual fill on mine which is 1,050,000 btu. i think any steam boiler needs regular look-overs, LWCO blow-down, and waterline adjustment, etc. the auto feeder just makes it easier to put these inspections off until "tomorrow".--nbc

RobLC

Thank you, Nicholas Bonham-Carter...

We have a service contract with National Grid - - they come and do the inspection.  Maybe it's not thorough enough.

And we clear (blowdown?) the LWCO, 2 - 3 times a week.

I think we would call a pro for a waterline adjustment and disconnect the Auto Feeder.  I see you point about discovering a leak.

I was thinking of installing the flush valve to the right of the "tee" fitting.  It's the

tee just above where I wrote "Auto Water Feed."

Again, just so I'm making sense to you, if you look at the sketch, I would put the flush valve to the right of the "tee" just above "Auto Water Feed."

That is the lowest point. 

Would that work?

Also, I have a can of Squick with silicone. 

Being that all the wet returns are new, can I plug the boiler at bottom and run just enough so not to make steam and add the Squick without the returns attached.

Again, just heat water just before it steams then open the plug at bottom.

Thank you for answering this question.

RobLC

nicholas bonham-carter

squick no substitute for maintainance!

your location seems fine-do you have a floor drain? it's much easier than a bucket!

as for squick, i view that as a substitute  for skimming, and what happens to the sqick when it has absorbed a little oil-does it sink down to the bottom and make a solid lump there?  the boiler mfg. probably has some definite instructions about skimming, following the instalation of any new part on the boiler.  it will take a few days or weeks for the oil from the new piping to finish moving into the boiler, unless you use whatever cleaning product recommended by your boiler mfg.--nbc

RobLC

Thank you, NBC...

Ok, then, I will install the flush valve in that location, off to the right of the tee.

Now we have a floor drain, but it's about 15 feet away.



I was going to attach an outlet pipe to the valve with a cap on it and just screw on a longer diverter pipe when I do the blowdown and recap when it's done.



I was going to do the skimming after I did a flush but now in light of your observation about a lump sinking to the bottom, well, that's not what I want.



The boiler has been working well and we don't have banging in the pipes or

surging in the sight glass.



What I will do is just a pure water flush (I could flush with hot water, but I heard that you could flush with cold water as long as the boiler's not hot) from the top of the boiler (relief valve inlet) and then put the new returns in and do a skim and then another skim in a week.

Thank you very much for your help with this.



RobLC

nicholas bonham-carter

wet return flush leg

if you could pipe over to the floor drain, you could put the ball valve just before the drain so that the tendancy would be for the sediment to move down there, instead of staying in the return.

when i skimmed a few days after the new boiler installation was finished, i simmered the water with arm and hammer washing soda mixed in for about an hour. then began to add water verrry slowly, while simmering for 30 minutes, then finally cut the burner off and let the water continue running verry slowly for several hours-all per peerless boiler instructions. you could use a big hot water hose over to the floor drain to make it easier. following an earlier post of mine, i say again that someone should develop an auto-skim device, with the oil being trapped somehow in a cleanable cannister!!!--nbc

RobLC

Thank you, NBC...

Interesting ideas, now you have me rethinking my design.

Wondering if 15 feet of extra piping would collect too much water.

And thank you for the skimming procedure.

Like the idea of auto skim - - yes indeed.

Thank you for your input and help.



RobLC