Repiping water meter

Dave_23

Hi  there.  I have an older, 1920's house with the following situation: The piping immediately adjacent to my basement water meter is drippping.  The drips are occurring from corroded areas where a couple of galvanized close nipples connect to other galvanized fittings. 



Description of piping:  The service into the house is 1-1/2 inch heavy gauge copper with a soldered threaded adapter.  Next is a series of galvanized 1-1/2 inch piping connected to a brass gate valve, then to more galvanized piping, then to the inlet of the meter.  The meter inlet and outlet pipes are brass.    Next is a series of galvanized piping connected to the meter outlet, then into another brass gate valve, then into more galvanized fittings which subsequently feed the galvanized main for the whole house.  I need to conduct the near-meter repairs.  Should I replace the leaking inlet and outlet piping, nipples, etc.  adjacent to the meter with brass, or just replace with galvanized?  How about the final interface/connection to the galvanized house main?  (Additional note:  The electrical service in the house uses the cold water service as a ground.  The meter is spanned by a #6 copper ground wire.)  Thanks for your expert advice.

-Dave

TonyS

Galvanized But

Screw the brass valve onto you copper adapter before going to your galvanized pipe. You could use brass if cost doesnt matter but it shocks me when I get the bill for brass nipples. If you are on city water supply the water is neutral and the galv will last for many years.

Dave_23

Brass vs Galvanized

Tony,

The galvanized held up for about 7 years before corrosion and leaking set in.  I can probably pick up the brass fittings and close nipples I'll need for about $50 or less, total.  I'm trying to avoid this happening again in another 7 years.  It's a pain shutting off the water at the street, draining the house, the reaction from the wife, the kids, etc...I don't mind spending a bit more to do the job well.

-Dave

TonyS

1-1/2 0r did you mean 1/2 inch

Then use brass but that wont always stop the corrosion if it only lasted that long. My city is still full of galvanized water services that have been in 60 years. If your pipe only lasted a short while it could be from something else and you will still have the same problem. I have found in older homes they use the water pipe for electric grounding and sometimes stray voltage tends to eat holes in the pipe. If that is the case, drive some ground rods and reground your electric system.  I don't know how many 1-1/2 brass nipples you need but it doesn't take many to make 50 bucks. Stainless is also a good route, we do all our well systems in stainless now . and the price is close to brass.

Unknown

1.5" is large for a house,,,,

but none the less, just get a pro in there and do it over in copper. Galvanized does not last long as it corrodes from the outside-in when exposed to high humidity(sweating), as is its nature near the point of entry(meter). If the main piping(after the meter) is galvanized also, look into changing that too as you likely wont see any light through a 12" piece.     

Dave_23

1.5" - yes

Yes, it's a 1.5 inch main.  The house originally had Sloan valve toilets, which are long since gone.  The 1.5 does offer good overall pressure though.  Interesting suggestions - Stainless or copper vs brass.  The house is on municipal city service.  It's not fed from a well.  Recommendations?

Dave_23

What type of copper pipe for incoming water service.

One of the experts suggested using copper.  This sounds like a great idea.  Although I'm not an expert, I believe there are two types of copper pipe, with different wall thicknesses.  Note that the service is 1.5 inch diameter from the street, buried under the front lawn.   What type of Cu pipe would folks recommend?  Thanks again.

Paul Fredricks_3

I think

there is at least 3 different tpyes of copper: M, L and K. K is the thickest and I think that is what they use for water mains. But I am not a plumber and could be wrong.

Unknown

In my area,,,,

Type M is acceptable above grade(not buried),, "L" is even better yet, but more $$. Type "K" is the best,,, usually used for direct burial, and again much more $$ and not really  needed above grade. If the flush-valve operated toilets have long since been replaced, it sounds to me like the 1.5" main-trunk is no longer needed,,, again, seek a local pro to give you advice on your situation.