Radiant Floor and Ceiling Combined

TLynch

Okay, thanks again. I see from the picture that the plate will hold the tubing up, so I assume it snaps in and is a pretty good fit. You probably don't need a palm nailer to get it in like you do the Thermofin I'll bet!

Can you recommend a manufacturer(s) for that lightweight plate?

TLynch

Radiant Floor and Ceiling Combined

I installed underfloor heat with ThermoFin C, 1/2 pex, and a variable injection system with ODR a few years back in an addition to my house. The addition was insulated w/ poly spray foam, including spraying directly over the tube and plates. It's working extremely well. I'm now retrofitting the existing part of the house and am gutting rooms.

I know I can continue the ThermoFin C approach, but the good wife would like carpet in our TV room, so I'm thinking of using radiant ceiling for that first floor room.

I'm hoping someone can share photos of a technique for this -- is it done with furring strips and thermofin U plates?

My other question is if I have plates on the floor above for the second floor bedroom, and radiant ceiling below for the first floor TV room, I'm guessing it doesn't do me much good to fill the joist cavity with insulation. I would foam in the end joist perimeter to stop heat loss there of course.

Thanks for the help,

Tim

Unknown

you still need to insulate between radiant assemblies if you want to control the areas at all.

See attached for a detail without insulation yet, 1x3 strapping and lightweight plates at 16" o.c.. Max water temp should be 120 or less but in our experience much under 100 and output appears to drop off significantly.. I informally call the water temp range 100 to 120.

TLynch

Thanks Rob, looks good. I rarely see secondary loop temps over 110 deg with the current system, even on cold days here in Upstate NY. Although the old part of the house won't be quite as tight as my addition, I should be able to handle that.

So with these temps and good control, I shouldn't have cracking issues with blueboard and plaster then?

I assume in your photo, you're hanging the sheetrock right through the plate into the furring strip, right? This will be a challenge with heavier plates, so I'm thinking I'll have a separate furring strip for the rock.

Unknown

I don't think the heavier plates will do much in a ceiling. Maybe I'm wrong but since you can't break 120 anyway and the output at lower temps is so good, I just use lightweight plates in ceilings. If you want more output, tighten the spacing, there is plenty of room for improvement over 16" o.c. but it's typically very adequate.

you may have to raise the high end parameters of your reset curve though for mild weather, that's been our experience anyway.

edit: and yes, drywall goes right to the strapping. that is 16" o.c. strapping with a second run offset with a 1" space between the two for easy math.

Unknown

you have to watch the plate you choose and only staple one side. we have ours made for us specifically. There are some good ones out there though, I don't know them all but rehau's lightweights are pretty good.

TLynch

Excellent, thanks.

EricAune

Transfer plates

I agree with Rob, secure one side of the plate. Noise will be a factor if both sides are secure (my experience). Check out this product, I have used it for a while now and have had a hard time finding any cheaper. Good quality too.

http://www.blueridgecompany.com/radiant/hydronic/316/rht-heat-transfer-plates

Peace

Mark Eatherton

Roth Panel

Radiant heating AND cooling...

ME

hot_rod

if your

wife is understanding... Here is my exposed radiant ceiling.. White PAP helped hide the installation, but not enough according to my wife.

The long thick ThermoFins do make some noise on start up. The system is not on a OD reset, yet.

I like the foam Roth panel idea best. I know the Roth system works well on floors.

hr

Gordy

Roth Panels

Now thats the way to go. Kills TWO birds with one stone.

Gordy