Mouat thermostatic traps

ttekushan_3

Hi Gerry- That makes sense. I've had the pleasure of working on residential mouat systems nearly all winter. Every single one worked very poorly due to the usual suspects-- new boiler water lines too low, end of main water seals blowing steam thru, random graduated valves replaced with standard types which are full open, radiator vents added on the ones that no longer heat, and pressure turned up just for good measure. The usual stuff. As you know its actually easy to correct these problems with such dramatic results in heat distribution, comfort and energy savings. I love it.

I have a hunch that all these radiators pictured were pulled from a seriously bungled vapor system.

I just wish I could open a catalog and pick out graduated radiator valves and water seal traps!

Do you think I'm ok without traps in this "addition" job? I can't see why not as long as my inlet restriction is equivalent to the required inlet restriction plus the restriction of the water seal traps. I should note also that I picked out radiators that have a little extra "oversizing" than even the original margin of safety used by Mouat. The last 20% of each radiator will act as a post condenser under the highest output conditions so there won't be any steam entering the returns.

ttekushan_3

Mouat thermostatic traps

Is there anything particularly special about these Mouat radiator traps? There are #35's and #41's. I did not see the system from which they were pulled. Am I correct in assuming that these traps were installed in later versions of Mouat vapor heating system as a more versatile type than the water seal types? Or were they merely expanding their market into standard two pipe heating?



I have the delightful task of adding on to a Mouat vapor system for a substantial house addition. Header piping is adequate to support a new main and fortunately the boiler is too large by the margin required to heat the two story addition. Don't worry, my plans are based on the reverse engineering of the existing system. Radiators procured are sized the way Mouat did originally.

I will likely operate "trapless" with inlet restriction only.

Now, what would make me very happy is a supply of new graduated angle globe radiator valves and Mouat water seal traps!

Thanks in advance,

-Terry

gerry gill_2

they were of more recent vintage

and were made so that they would be the same dimensions of the water seal trap if memory serves. Tom Mouat died in 1928 so most of the thermo traps were from who ever took over his firm after then..how are you doing these days Terry?..

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gerry gill_2

sure,

as long as you regulate the inlet of the steam with a graduated valve or as i do with an orifice disc and a standard valve you won't even need traps. Ive started using lead. but ive used other materials in the past including pepsi cans. as a matter of fact, one of the radiators at steve's house that works just wonderfully is orificed with a disc punched out of a pepsi can. thin, strong, and durable..what more can we ask for.

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ttekushan_3

thanks.

Thats how I was planning on doing it, but was unsure the best way to "plate" them. I have a steam book from about 1940 or so that shows these wonderful indexed orifice plates that are stamped to fit nicely between the two halves of the radiator valve union. So I guess I may as well put those on my wish list in addition to graduated hand valves and water seal traps!

Funny story about improvising restrictions. When I was very novice about steam heating, I was renting a pair of storefronts for the audio biz. The steam main for the north side of the building ran under all the storefronts going west to east. I had a drip station in my one basement, and the balanced pressure trap blew steam right into the dry return full force. The west end of the building was always roasting hot, and the east end following the drip station was always very cool. I told the landlord about it but he never did anything.

I wasn't willing to spend a dime fixing it.

But I was willing to spend a penny.

I drilled two 1/8" holes in the penny, oriented them vertically and jammed it into the union until it was pressed into the opening. To my knowledge its still there keeping the two halves of the building about only 2 degrees apart!
An early learning moment that worked out well.

gerry gill_2

those were probably

when they made ''good'' pennies huh! hehe

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