rad inlet? best way?

Unknown

matter of opinion Tim.<BR>If the opposing side plug <i>just happens</i> to be a LH thread, you may be doing some searching to find the proper fittings,, and some floor cutting-up will also be required to re-route piping.<BR>And if you decide to add a TRV to this rad, its much nicer to have the adjustment at <i>arms length</i> rather than at the floor.<BR>Just my $0.02. ;-)<BR><BR>Dave

AJ5

I'm replacing a cast iron rad. The old one was piped bottom to bottom. The new(vintage)one is already set up for inlet on top and outlet on the bottom,both on the same side.
I can change the piping easier than removing the old nipples so I'd like to hook the new one up as is.

Is the inlet-top, outlet-bottom, on the same side less efficient? The fact that they are on the same side is what concerns me. The rad is pretty wide... about 48". It is a hot water system.

Thanks

Unknown

AJ

Sounds like a nice big rad!
It also sounds like it was previously on a gravity circulation system.
Typically if the tappings happen to be on the same end(top & bottom), the top is the supply, and as cooler water is heavier, the return at the bottom.
The only time(using on forced circ) you may encounter a problem using these openings is if the circ pump itself pushes so much velocity through it could "short" circuit on the tappings end.
However, this is very, very rare so I would think you should be OK. ;-)

Dave

Timco

Drill a few holes in the plug and chisel out the plug, I say. Top tapped rads always look bad I think weather you use iron or copper. With a few holes in it, it will pop right out. Best configuration for pumped systems is bottom to bottom or across rad.

Tim

bob young

taking a shot.

I AGREE TIM but ....... if he is not experienced in removing plugs from tapping he could crack the radiator. even to the best **** happens. would you let your helper tackle such a task or do it yourself. we make it look easy.

AJ5

Thanks for the replies.
I restored some big old (100 year+) brass valves so it will actually look pretty cool with the inlet on the top.
I'm mostly concerned with maximizing BTU's. I can change things around either way. The in-top, out-bottom on the same side would be easier but if I'm going to lose heat I'll change it.
Seems like it will work as long as the the flow rate is not too high right?
Piping in a couple of days so let me know!
Thanks

hot_rod

a good look

I don't remember who posted this, maybe they will return? it shows heat flow with different piping.

hr

Unknown

I do remember Bob,

it was Radiator Ranger,, Gwen Healy if memory serves. ;-)

Dave

Unknown

Neat`Picture! Those thermal imaging cameras really show you a lot and I can see would be a great help diagnosing a problem.

- Rod

Radiator Ranger

Radiator plumbing

Hi All,

I posted the original thermal images - hot rod made them into a 3 in 1 which is useful.

I'd love to see the radiator you're working on AJ - pictures can be great.

My observation suggests that bottom to bottom plumbing is more efficient for even flow through a radiator. The thermal imaged radiators were installed over some 25 years by different people etc. & are of radiators plumbed end to end with a bleeder valve installed at the return end for air removal and to invite water into and through the entire unit.

AJ's question seems focused on plumbing a radiator with send and return on one end of a radiator. While I do not consider this a good approach I have direct experience of such a radiator installation and it works great (pictured below). The reasons:

1) The units are installed at "the front of the line" and they are low and small.

2) The units has a 3/4" feed from the 2" main distribution piping. The plumbing is tamped down on the return line.

3) The particular radiator design has limited flow resistance overall, so water can heat its way through the entire radiator even though the plumbing doesn't pass water through the radiator.

I've been able to remove almost every fitting (some have offered significant resistance and required repeated approaches) but eventually, they spun or chiseled out.

You always have the option of taking the radiator to a machine shop for fitting removal; I did this with an early batch of radiators.

Re: the photos: The water starts at larger blue radiator, goes thru the yellow radiator then in the bottom and out the top (same end) of the smaller blue radiator.

We no longer use dialectric unions at the radiator - instead we use black iron from the radiator to the floor then oxygen barrier pex for several feet from the floor to the copper distribution piping.

Radiator Ranger summer outlook: create radiator workshop with backhoe access, flat work surfaces, water, electricity, indoor radiator storage etc.

School is almost out...

Till Next,

Radiator Ranger

Charlie from wmass

If it does short circut a distribution pipe can be made to increase flow across the rad. I am guessing thought that will not be an issue unless you are really pumping it hard. Then you may want to address the pumping rather than risk cracking the rad.