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Output of finned tube in \"window box\"

Bob Vennerbeck
Bob Vennerbeck Member Posts: 105
but the description rang a bell and I was reminded of how I finally identified mine - the online literature I pointed to includes photos, scaled drawings, output charts and installation notes - all of which helped educate me about similar items. Gotta start somewhere, and I thought I could help.

Comments

  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891


    Hi,

    My house has an old (1951) diverter tee system with finned tube enclosed in under-window convection boxes. The boxes have a cut-out in the baseboard at the bottom, where cold air goes in, and a grille near the top, where it comes out. The emitter is "insulated" from the outside by 3/4" of fiberboard (looks homasote-ish) on top of 4" solid masonry block, topped by an inch of stucco. How would I even start to go about estimating the output of one of these beasts? (I realize that measuring flow and delta T across the emitter would give me the output, but cutting into the pipe is not an option.)

    Many thanks,

    Gordan

  • Gordan

    Can you post a pic with the front cover removed & we`ll see what we can do?

    Dave
  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891


    I will certainly do that and post it this evening. Thanks!
  • Bob Vennerbeck
    Bob Vennerbeck Member Posts: 105
    convector output

    These sound just like the Beacon Morris convectors that I picked up at a barn sale 30 years ago - and if so, the data is all still available online:

    http://www.beacon-morris.com/html/forced_hot_water_steam_heat.asp

    If not an exact match, probably good enough to estimate from.

    Good luck!

    Vbob
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    wall convectors

    that's what it sounds like on a monoflow system?
  • Just curious Bob Vennerbeck,

    without a pic, how would you know that?
    Please don`t tell me "they`re all the same" hmmm.

    Dave
  • 1951?

    Are you saying 1951 is OLD? Many people do wished they have the 'old' system, with a new boiler, of course for the comfort.
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    old

    I have all cast iron baseboard in my home, and wouldn't replace it with anything but. peace
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177


    MAKES good sense to me, bro
  • Dave Stroman
    Dave Stroman Member Posts: 766


    Why do you need to know the heat output? Are you having problems?

    Dave Stroman

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177


    maybe sizing a new boiler
  • Dave Stroman
    Dave Stroman Member Posts: 766


    That is not the way you size a boiler.

    Dave Stroman

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    new manufacturer

    maybe he is starting his own fin tube radiation factory and he is preparing a three color brochure'
  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891
    Yep, that's what they are.

  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891
    Nope, these are custom built.

    It's a very similar concept to the fully recessed ones, but everything was site-built. I have the pics with measurements but couldn't find my camera's USB cable. I'll upload tonight.
  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891


    I'm evaluating how much I would have to change out if I replace the heat source. Knowing the emitter output is one of the variables. It may not help me size the boiler, but it should help with choosing between condensing and non, as well as the control strategy.
  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891
    The big picture...

    Sorry about the size. The fin tube element is 5.75" deep by 2.5" high by 29" long. The baseboard cutout is 32" wide by 3.5" high. The grille (the actual inner grid part, not the flange) is 5.25" high by 31.5" wide, and located 19" above the floor.

  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,371


    So I am guessing you are doing a heat loss for the home and then seeing if the emmitters were as over sized as the original boiler. If this is the case then a condensing boiler would work well as the water temp could be dropped with an outdoor reset to match the load. If on the other hand the emmitters need 160 F or hotter water to warm the rooms then you will just go with a conventional boiler around 86% AFUE.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,371


    Gordon my thoughts are that the units had factory covers at one point and were refitted with these as the grilles look far newer than the then the emmitters. the beacon morris charts should get you close but I would figure a lower output for a given size as the original openings are not known.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891
    Charlie,

    Thanks! The enclosures were actually custom built from scratch on site, but the finned tube elements do look a lot like the Beacon Morris ones. The specs in that PDF don't even go below 160 F supply temperature. Is there any way to extrapolate convector output for lower supply temps?
  • M grallert
    M grallert Member Posts: 19


    Mr. H's book Every Darn Radiator will have it and the outputs, and it's a cool book to have.
    Peace
    Matthew
  • Gordan
    Gordan Member Posts: 891
    Scratch that...

    Looks like it's proportional to delta T, so for every 10 degrees of supply temp drop I would lose 20 BTU per sqft of steam EDR.

    Which means that the output at 140 degrees supply would be half of the output at 180 degrees supply (based on a 10 degree drop across the emitter.)

    Anyway, thanks, all!
This discussion has been closed.