Working Around Obstacle (Steam Main)

TonyBal_2

I have attached an idea to work around Steam Main obstacle.

Plan A was to have just one trap. But the space is too tight between the obstacle (steam main) and the dry Return Main to fit a trap. (right half of area)

So how about two traps?

See photo of problem area.

Next is photo of plan. (no PDF at moment).

At left is End of Steam Main. Center is Steam Main (obstacle). Right is Dry Return Main (back to boiler).

Red items are traps. a Straight-Away lower left. Angle at upper right.

GN Homeowner

gerry gill_2

what is the elevation difference

between the steam main and the return main..is the steam main higher? i hope..the trap across the top would work as far as venting air goes..that would be whats called a cross over trap..i'm thinking loop seal instead of a trap for the bottom pipe..no obstructions that way..would need to be deep tho..one ounce of pressure can cause water to rise 1.75 inches so take that into account.

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TonyBal_2

I could not take it anymore...

..so I took a big HO leap and opened up the pipe. pulled the Illinois Trap to see what was coming out. Was it a rad return, or a End of Main Steam?

(see photos)

ahaahh test. yikes that stuff is hot...steam blowing everywhere out his little 1/2" pipe. This is an End of Main for sure. I guess the only purpose is to vent air out of the pipes ASAP.

I checked the rads. Most valves were hot. All traps were cold. But I did not let the boiler run very long.

Not sure where this leads us other than to confirm that this section does need a trap, per original design.

I think the consensus is to to go over (steam) and under (liquid) the obstacle (Steam Main) in order to properly vent this End of Main.

Glen, the center Main Steam 3" pipe (obstacle) and the two surrounding pipes are all about the same level. The pipe on the left -- End of Main slopes slightly toward camera/trap. The pipe on far right -- Dry Return slopes slightly down away from camera.

Not sure where all this leads to the obstacle piping? assume over and under still good plan?

Glen - not sure what Loop Seal is , but don't think i can do it with my 3 pipes all same level...

Just noticed a small shot glass amount of leak around base of my boiler..blackich water. Beast must not have liked the shock of turning it on/off in summer. that can't be great news...

Night.

GN Homeowner

TonyBal_2

sorry, meant to say Gerry rather than Glen.. GN

gerry gill_2

can you drop

the pipe to the floor and then back up for a loop seal?

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TonyBal_2

whiplash

OK, very sorry guys to whiplash here. What if I avoid the whole obstacle piping scheme?

What about running the (Illinois Thermo) End of Main back to the boiler (about 17 feet) and piping it Dunham textbook-style like my other three End of Main near boiler piping? (see Old Remod Photo w/Proposed arrow).

Not sure why the dead guys did not do this. Or perhaps they did and current set-up is a mod for a door that was added later.

I have been looking at it and think it can be done without any demo work and the pipe has plenty of pitch to run back to the boiler. It would be at a height similar to or higher than the other 3 End of Main returns. It would have its own independent near-boiler down-leg pipe until it is far below the water line.

There are no wet returns.

I think this particular End of Main is tied into the big (2 pipe) Rads that someone put vents on the in living room.

Seems like this would be a better plan than trying to perfect this Obstacle piping scheme which seems controversial and with some risk of not working.

Seems like a good idea if it can be done with proper pitch??

GN

PS : There is room to run a Loop Seal to the floor (seven feet below). It would need to be piped into Closet below which is doable. And then concealed. Would water be able to run back out of it into dry return?

Steamhead (in transit)

That may explain

the plugged pipe tappings in the boiler room.

If there really are no obstructions above the door, go for it! Just install a crossover trap for that pipe in the usual manner near the boiler.

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TonyBal_2

thanks

thanks Frank. Seems like the way to go to me. I would rather do it "right" per Dunham specs if at all possible.

and good point re plugged pipe tapping. really does not seem to be that hard a project. and I save cost of all the new obstacle piping. rest is just trap guts replacment and main venting (I hope---assuming no pipes are crushed).

I'm off to get a long 1" black pipe just to dry lay above door and check pitch but i think I'll be fine as I already did it w/a straight edge. there is a cavity above the door area.

I'll give you all a rest for a while. (for a few minutes anyway)

once I get the piping/traps all cleaned up, then i can start dreaming about a new Burham or SlantFin or Giant...

GN Homeowner