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New Install Prestige And Smart Tank

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Kal Row
Kal Row Member Posts: 1,520
I did the design/drawings/photoshoping and mosses’s guys did the install and pictures – and if I put 1.5” in the diagram – then, they put 1.5” in the system – no questions asked!!!


Second: they are not fed from “one to another” – each remote manifold has it’s own insulated pex run back to the supply and return manifold, and the pl55 pump on there – not only has enough flow – it has to much flow, as this is a “mini-tube injection” system where I am just bringing “BTU’s” to the remote pumped manifolds – not GPM , I did not have a get a good up-front handle on the system resistance I would be encountering, so se over killed on the pump to guarantee that system would deliver, but the pressure differential pressure bypass valve is shunting most of it. This pump is slated for a change out, as I need about half the head and flow. – look at the first pdf, I enlarged one sample remote manifold so you can see it’s details

By “bringing BTU’s to the remote pumped manifolds – not GPM”, we mean, we go to the remote manifold’s close-T’s with 125f water and come back with 85f water – so that each gallon moved leaves behind 20,000 btu – so all I need to send to a the typical manifold from the boiler room is 2gpm, and for that a pl55 is way too big, a 0014 would have done fine – but even a 0014 at 1.85 amps is wasteful - I am waiting for B&G to start shipping the Laing ECM pumps (ITT: b&g’s parent, just bought Laing) then I can eliminate the pressure differential pressure bypass valve, and the pump will change
speeds by itself as the zones open and close – (30-80watts instead of 420watts fixed)

This job is not finished – it’s getting a second boiler to handle the snowmelt load – but will be installed in parallel to the first for a dual boiler redundant primary setup,

Now: to me radiant isn’t really “green”, because in order to get good even floor temps, you have to put a pump on each manifold as it takes real energy to move water through those tubes – sure if we had 15watt ECM pumps – it would be another story, but for now, 80watts at each manifold – is simply not green IMHO – if you want green, then you put in way oversized cast iron radiators – with a cast iron boiler – and one small 15-30watt ECM pump that pumps through the boiler and then to a manifold where each radiator is connected too by it’s very own pair of insulated pex home runs – then, even though the boiler is loosing 15% up the chimney, but considering that we generate most of our electricity with coal, the electric saving effectively puts “carbon” back into the ground – now that’s what I call “GREEN”!!! – nevertheless we still do mostly radiant

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  • Moses
    Moses Member Posts: 93
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    New Install Prestige And Smart Tank

    This house has 8 zones of radiant heat, and a Smart indirect water heater
  • EricAune
    EricAune Member Posts: 432
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    Nice

    Nice looking work! Did you really pipe it like the drawing? Seems to me (w/o any solid numbers) it would be impossible to get proper "gpm's" to each manifold group after first have been fed through another. The piping looks awesome, and your photo-shop work is great. Is that 1" or 1 1/4" CT for the Primary supply & return in the picture next to the boiler?
    Again, you say 10,000 ft of tubing, seems like you will be hard pressed to get the right flow you would need with the entire system calling.

    I could be missing something, or just wrong. You sure fit all that stuff in there nicely.

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  • Unknown
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    Sweeeeet!

    Nice lookin' job!
  • EricAune
    EricAune Member Posts: 432
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    cool idea

    I haven't seen it done this way. It sounds like a great approach. I really like the diagram too.

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  • Kal Row
    Kal Row Member Posts: 1,520
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    you need to go to siggi's and dan's seminars

    www.hydronicpros.com
    and click "seminars" on top here
    you learn tons and have fun too!!


    by the way - to illustrate what ecm motors do for you - i have two little head motor magnets that i pulled out of a crashed hard disk - and i challenge people to pull them apart - you need two vise-grips to do it - that's the kind of force the permanent magnet rotor in an ecm pump brings to the table - small circulators go from 80wats to 15watts instantly and have way more starting torque


    as for my radiators – siggi would simply show you the palm sized wilo 1.5-3watt circulators that go on each radiator and connect to a central controller via a telephone type cord and connecter and the boiler’s loop would simply close tee into the manifold – the advantage of cast iron radiators over the fancy new panel radiators is the “buffer tank” effect of that hunk of iron – which acts as the simplest anti-short cycle device money can buy – and cast iron ray-d-8’s just as good as anything else
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