foolish to re-use flowchecks?

Unknown

is it safe to assume your zones are controlled by circulators?<BR>Are you going to replace them?,, if so most wet-rotor circs have built-in check valves that can take their place.<BR><BR>Dave

Stray_2

So I'm swapping boilers in my house, and the new boiler is going in a new spot (so I have to re-work some supply and return lines for a couple zones of 1" fin-tube).

Any problem re-using the existing flow-control valves (estimated to be original...55 years old)? I've cut them out of the system, and if I tip them upside down the internal float still moves freely.

Is it foolish to re-use these? Should I just go get some new flow/checks instead?

Thanks!

billtwocase_10

flow check

It also sounds like you have a mono=flo system. No mater what you do, make sure it is on the supply. While the system is being replaced, that would be pocket change to replace them now, or big money when all is said and done and they don't open or close. peace

Unknown

Foolish

Get rid of them!

Unknown

I`m curious Bill,

from what Stray`s original question is,,, how can you possibly reach the conclusion he has a mono=flo system??
Do you have some kind of telepathic mind?

As you know, there are many types of systems, or are you just guessing , and hoping you`re right?

I would hope, people come here for more than "guesses". ;-)

Dave

steve_29

I would suggest removing all the old parts from the system, including the old oil line and oil tank.

Do it right the first time.

Erich_3

What Make Are They?

Some of the old flo valves were made to last forever. The old Thrush valves had the capability to run with the valve open in case there was a problem. I vaguely recall that they also had a built in hand pump.

Stray_2

currently zone valves, but with the supply and return re-work I'm switching to circulators.

I've thought about the integral checks in the circulators, but thought I could save a $ or two buying them without, if the flo-controls were worth saving.

Stray_2

Not monoflow, simple once-around zones of 1" copper w/ 1" fin tube.

Stray_2

Straight to the point! Thanks. Would you go with circs that have one integral, or a separate flow/check for any reason?

Stray_2

These are old B&G "Flo-Control" valves, and they do have a lever on the top so you can open it to get gravity flow (in case you had circ problems).

Unknown

those old B&G

Those old B&G flow controls are better made than the new ones. As the new ones will leak at packing nut and the stem are not long enough to put wrench to tighten them without removing the handle ( losing the Jesus clip while doing it so).. I've repeatly told the show 'engineers' about it and NOTHING been done... hello Taco...

bob young

B. & G. FLOW CONTROL CHECK

KEEP THE FLOW CONTROLS . ALWAYS GO WITH SEPARATE COMPONENTS.

Stray_2

Interesting. I wondered if the old might be better than the new. But are you saying a new Taco flow/check is the way to go?

Unknown

ask you this...

Are the pump(s) on the return side of the old boiler? If so, they shud be on the supply side of boiler(pumping away from tank,etc) now.. Do you really need each pump for each zone? Dependings on the size.. One wet rotor pump will be penlty for the whole house system and use Taco zone valve for each zoning..

Stray_2

A single pump was on return side of old boiler. I plan to "pump away" with the new circs (primary/secondary setup).

I anticipate adding 3 radient zones in the future as well though. I was going to leave spaces/taps on the header for future small circs (and mixing valves of course) when I do that. I was thinking that chosing a single pump with a proper cuve for the existing zones head...that would also be ok once the added head of the radiant zones are added, would be hard.

steve_29

I would use IFC circulators, it would save you time and money, but if you chose, then by all means use sweat cheks with standard circs.

jim dowling_2

Stay away from IFC pumps, there going to stick open or stick closed in the near future.(guarateed) The only reason contractors use them on new systems is to save $$$ on the install. Stick with the separate flow contol. Cost more, but lasts.

Bob Bona_4

sorry

Jim, but that's your opinion, not fact. Smart contractors know IFC's make for less fittings to leak, eliminate weighted check chatter, and streamline piping. In addition, it's a lot easier to access an IFC than to try to take apart an archaic weighted check.

Unknown

I agree Bob,

circ IFC`s are a great addition!
Any check-valve is prone to dirt-sticking and are much easier to clean out(about 20 min), in my opinion.

Dave

billtwocase

Dave

Just took a stab at it when he said 1" finned tube. Not common on zip loop residential. I guess I can stand corrected, and around here, that era, they were all mono-flo. You can bet it heats great. peace

billtwocase

gotta disagree

An inline flow check with a plug on the bottom, teflon tape, drop the pressure, pull the plug, clean it out, 19 min dave lol peace

bob young

seized black iron plugs.

IF that plug is a few years old , when you slap a wrench on it you might be turning the whole damn boiler with it !! if it was installed by the dude from burnham that puts the plugs in those skim tappings you might be in for a big surprise. lol i broke a ridgid basin wrench trying to remove one.

Charlie from wmass

Well I keep my basin wrench under the sinks Bob but to each their own. I am not convinced that IFC is better long term. It does mean less joints and I have used a few on replacement jobs but with the leaking from the seperate flow checks if you ever move them to gravity flow I am leaning towards the IFC pumps. I am fully against the spring checks of the 1990's as I am very disappointed in them. SO I say IFC pumps or seperate flo-checks the old ones will not behave well when reinstalled as per Murphy's law.

Stray_2

that damn Murphy strikes agian...

Thanks everyone for weighing in. I'll replace them.

bob young

maybe it went over my head, please clarify.

HEY CHARLIE, I don't know if the statement from you about the basin wrench was a misguided attempt for little humor or intentional insult. to remove a stubborn plug from a boiler without removing the whole jacket sometimes you gotta do the unconventional. sometimes it works , sometimes the bear eats you. i hope i am wrong , you always seemed very professional.

billtwocase

Bob

just like annode rods lol. The key is teflon tape, and snug only. I would bet that Charlie was just ribbin you Bob. He's a good guy from up country. Fellow Taxachussetts resident. peace

bob young

brand new installed by burnham.

I DID not install the plug, ace. burnham did on a brand new package boiler. . not the first one to cause grief either. had them in so tight the hex snapped off the plug. they must use a compressed air gun to tighten them. after almost fifty years in the trade i think i know how to remove a fr*ggin' plug.

Charlie from wmass

Bob it was a failed attempt at humor. We all get creative at times I have been known to add a strong arm to a wrench and bust my knuckles. Sorry if it read as an insult. But I am betting the rigid dealer looked at you sideways when he had to replace the wrench. LOL

p.s. my Scot blood makes me too cheap to risk my rigid basin wrench.

Bob Forand

Keep in mind

Stray, keep in mind that the flow/head rates on the IFC pumps are not the same as standard pumps.

That brings up another question, where is the best place to place a seperate flowcheck in the system ?

bob young

frozen plugs

thanks for setting that straight, Charlie. I appreciate that. I also am half scotch but i never thought of putting in for a replacement under warranty.I guess the German half prevailed ! in fact they wanted so much for the head that i just bought a whole new wrench. now if i can only find that broken wrench

Stray_2

"where is the best place to place a seperate flowcheck"

Well Bob, that's a great question. I planned to put one a few feet downstream of the circulator in each zone. Is there a rule of thumb about distance from circs?

I also noticed in the boiler manual, that they actually sugggest TWO flowchecks on each zone. One after the circ, and one on the return, ahead of the primary loop tie-in. I wasn't sure why I'd need two?

Suggestions?

steve_29

I guess it's the same theory if the direction tells you to take 1 every 4 hours, it should be better to take 1 every 2 hours! :-)

You shouldn't need more than 1 on a single zone or 1 on each zone in a multiple zone configuration.

If you want, you can experiment and see how many one could put on a zone until there was too much restriction to allow for flow. JK

I have IFC pumps on systems for years now and have had no problems, including flow checks.

Can you have problems ... sure can, with either.

Which ever way you decide, they'll both keep the water from flowing when you don't want it, causing overheating of a zone.