Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

B&G Flow Control:Turn full clockwise until it stops?

Options
Unknown
Unknown
in THE MAIN WALL
There is <i>some leeway</i> in the adjustment.<BR>Typically it should be screwed-down all the way without forcing.<BR> Try this <A HREF="http://www.bellgossett.com/homeowners/BG-flocontrolvalve.asp"> link </A> for a somewhat better view of whats inside.<BR><BR>Dave

Comments

  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,852
    Options
    Just had 3/4\" S-A replaced

    Instructions say once installed turn lever fully clockwise. Tech left it at around an 8 o'clock position, but I noticed that it can turn plenty more, perhaps another full time around. Another tech told me there is no 'o'clock' position, it's when it can't go any more clockwise. So I assume I should do that no matter how many turns it takes. (without forcing it.)


    Thanks,

    David
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    Options
    the weight

    was probably bottomed out, but always tighten untill it stops. peace
  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,852
    Options
    thanks gents

    I know some techs are leery of these units since they're not happy with how the threads get compromised. I can see a tech not wanting to close it down too tight which would put pressure on the threads or have the weight 'stick' over time if there was any oxidation going on. The 28 yr old unit it replaced was rusted out a bit. I guess it's similar to how gently many pros treat those old gate valves with extra care.

    Thanks,

    David
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Options
    You`re welcome David,

    B&G used to employ a "stuffing- box" packing around the stem(tightened by a small nut), just under the adjustable wing outside the valve.
    Unchecked leakage here usually led to their demise.
    I`m not sure if they`ve superseded this with an "O" ring,, I kinda hope not. ;-)

    Dave
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    Options
    re-packing

    Amazing how many guys are afraid to repack those stems. If they are not rattling, repair. peace
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Options
    So right Bill,,,

    sounds like we`ve both seen a few! ;-)

    Dave
  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,852
    Options
    good to hear repacking is an option

    certainly alot less work. I've got a big 1.25" SA and a sweated 3/4" straight B&G that are sort of stuck in the correct position, so they 'work' and no signs of rust on the outside.

    Best,

    David
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Options
    On the older ones,

    I "think" the wing was also CI with a swagged pin, if you could get that off, repacking should be easy.
    The newer style had a plastic wing & used a small "tuarc" clip holding it-on. These clips will drive you crazy to remove, but still possible.

    Dave
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    Options
    oh yea Dave

    Start with a wire brush just to see what brand it is or was. The rattlers, i've removed the top, removed the clip and weight, and found a sweet spot for a swet-check, but nothin compares to an iron flow check. Sometimes the sweat type valves have light weights, and for a very short time Taco had a rubber seated check valve. Alot of those got over heated while soldering, and melted the rubber washer. Hello ghost flow. peace
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    Options
    or

    you thought the stem was turning while it was just the top
  • Unknown
    Unknown
    Options
    LOL!

    Good to see you friend,,,
    Saw one once, the plumber put so much heat & solder on-it, the plunger was permanently fixed to
    its seat,,, what a chore to find!

    Dave
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    Options
    soon after

    There was solderless fittings lol
  • D107
    D107 Member Posts: 1,852
    Options
    etc

    these are all B&Gs; i'm assuming original from prior owners, from early 1980s. S-As are red and sweat is bronze. 3/4" writing says F00600; 1.25" is F003200 and the sweat (yes, there is some rust there after all) is F00200. The instructions scare you a bit with 'any signs of rust indicate that a potentially dangerous situation may soon develop resulting in possible severe injury due to flow control failure.'

    It was hard watching the journeyman plumber tightening the new one on with all his strength with channel locks that scarred the whole unit, using teflon AND paste. I guess the motto out there is 'better tight than have it leak.' Must be funny when it leaks beCAUSE it's in so tight. This is a very funny business; i've gotten more laughs from these threads than I ever would have expected. Man has invented all these great things that seem so hard to maintain well.
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    Options
    pipe wrenches

    amazing that few will get on those with an actual wrench and not egg the packing nut. It probably looked like it got in a fight and lost after marring it up with pliers. This is an awesome site with many a briliant mind. It gets comical at times, but the recommendations are generally spot on. peace
This discussion has been closed.

Categories