New hot water boiler

chapchap70_2

The System 2000 is ideal for power venting because of the low stack temperature and high draft tolerance of the boiler. They recommend that the powerventer be set to between -.11 and -.15 w.c. which would withstand greater than 40 mph winds. The company states that they were the first residential oil fired boiler to support power venting.

Glen_7

My business partner just bought an older home and is going to do a substantial structural renovation. Part of that will involve the heating system and removing the existing masonry chimney as it obstructs a water view. The existing house is heated with hydro air and a cast iron hot water boiler burning oil. There is no natural gas on this street. My question is this; Is there an oil fired system that can vent through PVC like the mod-cons so boiler placement can be determined early on in the design process? I looked at System 2000's website but it was unclear if a masonry chimney was required. He hasn't selected a heating contractor yet, so emitters for the renovated home have not been discussed. I have reviewed with him the basic options; hydro air, radiant baseboard, modern h/w radiators, and some radiant floors in the bathrooms. Not sure if emitter type affects this question. Thanks.

Dale

Side vent

Yes you can get side vent kits for oil, not cheap and IMHO somewhat loud. You may want to look at vertical type L vent, much less to look at than a class A chimney.

billtwocase

venting

Personally I would use Metalbestos. Power vents are troublesome, and lower the pressure in a home too much. Ghosting will be an issue in the future unless you bring in outside air. System 2000 is an awsome unit, been putting them in since 84, but all are chimney vent with no problems. Power vents have been out there for years, and are noisey and unreliable. JMO. peace

jim dowling_2

If a chimney is your problem. Grt rid of the oil and go with L P

gas. You can side wall or roof vent the 90% systems with a forced air furnace.

rjm

drect vent

Why not look into a smith or buderus. They both make a direct-vent boiler, pretty efficent systems, best of all no power-venter.

Robert O'Brien

Jim

An LP furnace vs. a hot water system? You're joking,right?

Unknown

I hope so

Not only the idea of switching from hot water to a furnace ........

But you lose what ? 40,000 btus per gallon if you go with LP ? And right now oil is substanstially cheaper than LP , at least on L.I.

jim dowling_2

If the cust. wants to add air cond. to his furnace, thats easily done with a furnace. Lets see you do that with a boiler with out spending twice the price.

Robert O'Brien

And

that would offer the comfort of a hot water heating system and a down fed CAC system?

billtwocase

LP

is not a good option, and warm air to boot, but reading his post a couple of times, takes that when you get older, there is currently a hydo-air there now? peace

Robert O'Brien

Since

it has a waterview,I'll assume this isn't low budget.How about a radiant system with a Buderus GB125BE or Peerless Pinnacle oil? Both condensing and direct vented. $1500 federal tax credit to boot!

ted kidd

Cheaper than what? Gallon per Gallon, BTU per BTU, or long term delivered heat cost to the space including service cost, etc...

Yeah, Gas us cheaper than Diesel too, but it's still boat loads cheaper to drive my diesel 320 cdi 500 miles than a gasoline h2 hummer.

If you are going to do an analysis, you have to go deep. Sized the radiators? Can they get away with 120 degree water to heat the house on most days? Then a mod con will save huge $ because it will run at condensing temperatures during much of the season (Ie: you'll be driving on the highway 90% of the time - oil units don't know what a highway is.)

billtwocase

Out Door Reset

Ted, it works on oil too

Bob Bona_4

That was

my thought too, Robert. You are allowed 17' horizontal direct vent concentric w/ the GB125B blue flame, and there will be no termination staining. Or go vertical w/ the concentric.

Steamhead (in transit)

Simply

adding A/C to an existing duct system will throw the house out of balance for at least half the year. There's no way one set of ducts in a residential setting can cope with the differing winter and summer air delivery requirements. This results in overheating or overcooling the house to get those difficult rooms comfortable. Adding the automatic dampers and associated controls used to offset this in commercial settings would likely be more expensive than completely separate systems for heating and cooling.

And don't forget the typical duct system loses something like 20% of what goes into it, due to leaks. This is down from 30% or so due to better sealing of duct joints.

With energy getting more and more expensive, we just can't tolerate this wastefulness anymore.

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Glen_7

Thanks for everyone's responses. It sounds like there are some good options. We are not ruling out a new masonry chimney in a different location, just wanted to know what all the options were.

THANKS AGAIN.
Glen