Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

low power zone valves

I'm looking for a zone valve that is kind of a "floating action". That is, that it only draws power to actually open or close, but once it finishes moving, it stops drawing power.

so if a thermostat told it to open, it would open, then break the circuit. and somehow it could tell when the demand disappeared, and could close again.

Looking to shave another 6 to 8 watts off of a heating system.. I'm down to about 8 max on a pump and typical max of 45 or so for the boiler on low to medium fire. If we can use the transformer already in the boiler to power the actuators, or line voltage without a transformer, even better.

If I could keep this whole thing to under 60 watts at all times, I'd be happy. though I am considering using line voltage thermostats to kill power to the boiler when there are no demands as well... checking on that with the mfg

Comments

  • Larry (from OSHA)
    Larry (from OSHA) Member Posts: 727
    thinking green

    The White Rodgers 3 wire valve does what you want and so does the Taco EBV. I'm not sure but the Taco might be the Low Power Leader!

    Good luck.

    Larry
  • Bill Clinton_6
    Bill Clinton_6 Member Posts: 35
    low power zone valves

    You might consider the Mohlenhoff style heat motor zone valves. The operator draws about 2 watts to stay open. Available from Uponor, Mr. Pex, and others.

    Bill
  • Eric_6
    Eric_6 Member Posts: 25
    Low Power (no power)

    The low power leader would be non-electric zoning w/smart pump such as Wilo Eco or Grundfos Alpha w/mod con. We are trying to have contractors go this route as much as possible in new construction and where it's feasible in retrofit applications. Oventrop or Danfoss valves and sensor heads w/the remote capillaries (have to be within roughly 25 ft. of valve body). Many other manufacturers of these valves and sensor heads.

    Cheers,

    Eric


  • I would go that route, except I am trying to design the heating system for 3 ft of head and 3 GPM so I can use the Alpha pump on low fixed speed (max 8 watts of power) on a one-pump system, no primary/secondary. The Unibox unfortunately has a bit too much flow restriction. Though, maybe I should consider kludging together a valve assembly with the remote cap tube here. I do prefer to avoid that if possible... but if ever it made sense, here is where that is. Thanks, Eric! I'm hitting my forehead here. Your suggestion is definitely the correct one.
  • CC.Rob_15
    CC.Rob_15 Member Posts: 8
    belimo?

    Maybe try Belimo? They have all sorts of cool stuff. And if you find one, please post what you picked. Never had the time to wade through it all.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,405
    motorized ball valves

    power open and power close. Use a 120V and get rid of transformer loss also.

    hr
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
This discussion has been closed.