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anode in buffer tank?
scott markle_2
Member Posts: 611
I'm thinking about using a small electric heater as a buffer tank. Parallel piped with mono-flow T's.
Does anyone see any potential issues with a tank anode in a closed loop heating system. Could the anode do more harm than good?
Does anyone see any potential issues with a tank anode in a closed loop heating system. Could the anode do more harm than good?
0
Comments
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Remove the anode?
It might be a good idea to remove the anode in a closed loop application and replace it with a threaded plug. As the anode reacts with the water electrochemically, it forms aluminum or magnesium hydroxide which is a white powdery material. In an open loop system, the substance is continually flushed away, but in a closed loop the powder might accumulate and tend to coat surfaces or clog small water passages with a slimy mess.
But I guess keeping the anode would not be any worse than having a boiler with an aluminum HX!0 -
unless...
it's a magnesium anode. Can't see it hurting or helping either way, guess I'd just remove it and plug the hole anyway though.0 -
I think I can handle a little precipitate it will probably just stay in the tank. I can kind of imagine my plug ending up as a corrosion point.0 -
It provides a great hole
to use for a gauge, pressure or temperature, or a 30 lb pressure relief valve.
It's a great location for an auto air vent as most WH have a domed top and collect air nicely.
Or an additional supply outlet to pair a couple together, for higher flows, like a geo buffer tank.
It may void the warranty to remove it, should that ever be a concern.
But in a closed loop, sealed system I don't see a need for it.
They can be a bear to remove, find a 6 point socket and a breaker bar.
hrBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
It might be time...
... for some scientific research. My experience with anodes (magnesium) in closed systems is that they corrode away in a normal manner and help keep tanks going. Sadly, I only have a few situations I've kept track of long term. In theory, no oxygen should prevent further rusting, but that is not the only mechanism eating steel tanks. I vote for keeping a mag anode in place. Put in a combo style and you can then add anything you wish to the outlet :~)
Yours, Larry
ps. I should add that there is a good book by Fontana and Greene called "Corrosion Engineering". It's third chapter on eight forms of corrosion is the clearest description of the processes I've seen. I see they range from $3.36 to about $172 on www.addall.com !0
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