New Metal Roof Question- (OT)

maine rick

hi dave the last 2 years i check on tin or shingles for my roof . looked at a lot of webb sites for info on the tin.with tin if you strip the roof first you do not have to strap it. if i did tin i would of stripped the old shingles then put down 1/2 4x8 sheat of the foam boards to keep the summer heat out.i ended up reshingleing the roof my self. one side down,one to go.this all came down for me as the cost factor. good luck and if you do it have fun.
maine rick

Unknown

I am contemplating a

metal-roof to replace my presently asphalt shingled one.
My roof is 4/12 pitch with std. gable ends about 45` long, no dormers just straight. My attic is unused, and never will be(no height, just insulation), well vented.
My house was built in the 50`s with 6-8" 25/32 T&G roof board(sheathing) running horizontally, and I want the shingles removed first.
Every contractor I approached in my area wants to strap-it (w/3/4"), then apply the steel roofing. They say this is for air-movement under the metal.
To me this will add a thickness to my eaves & gable ends needlessly.
Can`t the roof be unstrapped, but remove every 2nd or 4th(or 6th) roof sheathing board for air movement (its ribbed anyway)?
Or am I nuts? ;-)

Dave

nicholas bonham-carter

metal roof

why not look at the web-site of some of the roof mfg's, and see what their requirements are. when you get done you could put solar panels on top and not worry about future repairs disrupting the solar system. we would all like to know how it sounds in a hail-storm.

i would love to have a standing seam tern roof in our nebraska climate, instead of the old slate we have now!!--nbc

Unknown

Hi NB-C

Good to hear from you!
Yes I will consider the solar angle, when the roof gets on ;-).
BTW- Noise?? Won`t bother me much(attic insulation should cover that!)
I`ve seen a few other Dave`s out there, just be sure we`re not mixed-up ;-).

Dave

jp_2

maybe

they are worried about hold down strength, 5/8" isn't a lot of material to bite into. of course you could use more screws.

the gap would help reduce attic heat, reducing living area heat.

the extra 3/4", if done right, will not be noticed in the end.

Chris M

Get rid of the asphalt

A metal roof CANNOT sit directly on top of asphalt shingles. Temperature variations outside will cause the metal to expand and contract. This expansion and contraction will over time "sand" off the protective coating on the metal, speeding up corrosion. Also, the metal needs to rest on a true "plane" - the variations (although small) of height of the asphalt shingles will work against the integrity of the steel and the screws that fasten it. Remove the asphalt shingles, and screw the roof directly to sound plywood or otherwise solid sheathing, or install furring strips to seperate the metal roof from the asphalt.