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WM HE-6 burners not firing

Darrell_4
Darrell_4 Member Posts: 79
Even if you get a good sensor and a good pilot that is hot enough and striking the sensor properly the connection to the gas valve is so wimpy that you'll likely not get it to connect well enough to work. If you took it apart you'd look at it and say, "who dreamed that up?!" Convert it.

Comments

  • Fred Rappuhn
    Fred Rappuhn Member Posts: 107
    WM HE-6 burners not firing

    I have a WM HE-6 fired by NG, I have had service people in and out all season and still have problems. I am in a scorched air area and not many good boiler tech’s in the area, just parts changers!!!!
    When thermostat calls for heat, the blower kicks on, hear the spark & pilot lights, but the burners never fire.
    First the tech changes the gas valve, didn’t solve the problem.
    Then he changes the mercury flame sensor, didn’t solve the problem.
    He gets on the phone to call someone and then he jumps some terminals at the flame sensor, burner fires, removes the jumper, burner goes out!
    I asked the guy if he works on many boilers, he says, “boilers, furnaces, same thing!”
    I have been running this boiler with this jumper in place most of the heating season, I am running out of patients and $$$$$$. He is going to charge me rent for this jumper soon!!!
    What other parts are left for this guy to change??????
    The boiler was in operating before, just started this problem at the beginning of the heating season.
  • Empire_2
    Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,343
    OK,...First thing you NEED to do

    TAKE OFF THAT JUMPER NOW!!!!!!. This is an accident waiting to happen. If that pilot does not lite for any reason, the main GV will open. I cannot believe A service tec. Jumped out a pilot SAFETY control. I will bet that the pilot is really dirty and needs to be cleaned. The pilot orifices get plugged up from time to time.

    PS Remove that JUMPER WIRE!!!!I'd rather have you cold than dead.

    MIke T.
  • Fred Rappuhn
    Fred Rappuhn Member Posts: 107


    Mike, Jumper is off! Thank you!
    Do you think that cleaning the pilot orfaice will cure the problem? Pilot lite has beem coming on, just not the burners.
    Or is the pilot not strong enought to operate the mercury flame sensor?????
  • weil mclain have

    Weil mclain have a reofit kit to get rid of the pita present switch that you have now. I've done some change over. Where are you located?
  • Fred Rappuhn
    Fred Rappuhn Member Posts: 107


    I am not sure what switch your refering too, but I have a new mercury flame sensor,$$$$$, didn't cure the problem.
    I have read about a retro flame sensor to get away from the mercury,but this didn't seem to be the problem??

    I am in the Flint, Michigan area. You know, where GM used to be!!
  • JK_3
    JK_3 Member Posts: 240
    I have done a few of these

    I haave dealt with a few of these and even W/M says the only sure way to fix it and be done is to upgrade with the conversion kit I am not sure if this part number is the correct one for your boiler but I'm 90% sure. the W/M part number is 382200449. I have done several of these conversions with great results. I hope this helps.


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  • John@Reliable_21
    John@Reliable_21 Member Posts: 9


    From what I can find, JK has the right Part #.

    Dave
  • Dale
    Dale Member Posts: 1,317
    A guess

    I think you have a valve that has an internal fuse that blows if a vent damper is removed. Was there ever a vent damper on this boiler? Does the flame sensor,(liquid pilot), plug into the top of the valve? If the vent damper was removed completely a jumper is sometimes put back into the plug to make the valve work. On the older systems, with White Rogers valves the pressure switch fails in the valve and an external resistor is used. A picture of the valve would be helpful. One simple thing, these pilots needed to be pretty hot, the sensor must glow orange. A normal thermocouple soft flame is not hot enough.
  • its a \"power venter\"

    Its a " power venter" unit with a proving switch. A really good boiler pro knows its best to use the conversion kit right away. I hate those WR meurcy(sp) set up switch assy.
  • Rbasolis
    Rbasolis Member Posts: 1
    HE-6

    You might try checking the rubber flapper/flue damper in the outlet of the draft inducer. They sometimes stick shut and main burner will not light.
  • Fred Rappuhn
    Fred Rappuhn Member Posts: 107


    I have already invested a bunch of $$$ into parts & service that didn't cure the problem. The flame sensor dosen't get glowing orange in the pilot, so I think I will pull out the piolt assembley and clean and try that. This is a boiler that I would like to replace within approx. 5 yrs, I feel it's oversized for the heat loss that I ran on this house.

    I know you guys don't talk price, but ballpark cost of the conversion kit for this boiler????????
  • JK_3
    JK_3 Member Posts: 240


    I usually get the kit through Ferguson Enterprises inc. which I beleive has a showroom in Flint.

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  • Fred Rappuhn
    Fred Rappuhn Member Posts: 107


    Never heard of it, I'll look it up.
    I have buying fron A&S plumbing supply & Hodges Supply both in Flint.

    My dad was a boiler man years ago, I spent many hours at A&S.
  • JK_3
    JK_3 Member Posts: 240


    my book is a little old but it shows "1111 James P. Cole Blvd. tel#810-767-1640"

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  • Fred Rappuhn
    Fred Rappuhn Member Posts: 107


    JK,
    I googled them and found that, I am about 8 miles east of them.
    Thanks
  • JK_3
    JK_3 Member Posts: 240
    Life is Good !! Enjoy it !!
  • scrook_2
    scrook_2 Member Posts: 610
    WM HE-6 burners not firing

    "I have already invested a bunch of $$$ into parts & service that didn't cure the problem."

    Sorry to hear that.

    I'd guess it's time to cut your losses and go with a service contractor who knows what they're doing.

    Have you tried "Find A Professional"?
    http://www.heatinghelp.com/getlisted.cfm

    Otherwise call around and ask some questions till you find someone who seems to know W/M gas boilers.
  • John@Reliable_21
    John@Reliable_21 Member Posts: 9
    \"would like to replace within approx. 5 yrs\"

    Alot can happen in 5 yrs,,, hopefully in your case you will, but in my experience no-one ever does.
    As long as its working,,,lets stall-it is a broken record.
    Do yourself a favor & get the "kit".

    Dave
  • Fred, What you

    have is White Rodgers Cycle Pilot System. It has a mecury pilot which needs to get up to 400°(F) to boil the mercury so it will cause the pilot safety which is plugged into the valve to hold. Solution have the pilot removed and clean the orifice so that you will get a hotter flame 9 times out of ten this will solve the problem.

    There is a retrofit available from Weil McLain which changes those over to a hot surface igniter. Your
    local Weil McLain dealer or one near you can get you info on that. I would try the cleaning of the pilot first however.
  • Darrell_4
    Darrell_4 Member Posts: 79


    Do not hesitate...make the conversion to HSI, and do it with the WMC kit. Your problem will go away. The Mercury flame sensors go bad sitting in inventory and you are just frustrating yourself. They quit making it for a reason. You'll probably spend the biggest part of a thousand dollars if you don't do anything else...which would be kinda silly if you have a good tech there have him go through the whole system.
  • Empire_2
    Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,343
    I agree

    Mercury switches are nothing but trouble. If working correctly, the pilot still has to hit it correctly. The only thing I was stating at the top was a primary safety control should never be jumped out.

    Mike T.
  • Fred Rappuhn
    Fred Rappuhn Member Posts: 107


    Tim & all,
    Thanks for all the help. I will pull out the pilot assy and clean the orfice & make sure that pilot is hitting the sensor correctly and see if that will get me by. If not I will have to look at the HSI conversion kit. I'll check with my local supply house for availabilty & $$.

    The problem is in my area I have not been able to find a boilerman, my father did this kind of work and I used to work with him so I am a little informed, but not a tech!!!
  • tim smith
    tim smith Member Posts: 2,738
    First things first, these boilers need cleaning!!! Pull pilot,

    burners and clean and inspect for corrosion etc. Also on the HE after a # of years they start to block up on the secondary heat exchanger, now this is not whats causing the failure to go to main burners but will cause them to go out on pressure switch failure to prove. This is what first should be done. 2nd, you should not be paying for parts installed that do not fix the problem unless they are a safety issue or flat out don't work.... Whoever is working on this needs to get straight with you. Once all clean, then you go through the diagnosis of check flame switch to see if in fact it is not switching etc. Proper procedure!!!! I can't remember off hand but would have to look at wiring diagram to see if they wire main coil on valve through any other switches that may be keeping it from coming on but I dont think so. Have tech come back on his own nickel and call tech support at Weil Mclain while he is there to diagnose if he is not able to figure himself. Calling tech support is not a sign of defeat it is a sign of someone who wants to get the job fixed!!!
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