Your Ideas, Please

Mark Eatherton

And a darned good one at that. Engineers are used to drawing low point drains and high point vents on everything they draw. It's considered boiler plate to the drawing. In real life terms, the bottom of the riser will most probably be covered with finished goods, and never be accessible again. Skip it.

In regards to setting the mod con on the crawl space floor, if you have enough head height, consider placing the boiler on a metal water heater stand. This will make it easier on your back during servicing and also give you the height needed to properly neutralize and pump the condensate.

ME

Rich Davis_2

System Drains,

I noticed in Siggy's book, he had a drawing that had baseboard T's installed on the bottom of one of the risers to each convector. It said to use those as drains if the system was to be completely drained. To me it seemed like a good idea. My question is, does anybody go to the expense to do that? Time wise there isn't really any difference sweating a regular 90 or a bbT.
Next I'm going to be mounting a mod-con on a reinforced sheet of plywood in a dirt floor celler. My concern is about the moisture that is present when the system will be shut-down in the summer. Would it help to put a light bulb in the cabinet or build a cabinet around the electronics and keep it heated. Thanks

EricAune

Exactly

Using the water heater stand is the only way to go if using a floor set boiler. I have done a dozen or so like this and only thought of using the stand for the last two. Soooo much nicer!

Rich Davis_2

clearification

I will have full access to the lower end of all the risers, so thats not a problem.
My celler is basically a hand dig basement with 7' clearance under a 150+ old log house that has a dirt floor, I will be attaching the plywood to the posts that support the floor. And this will be a wall hung mod/con, probably a TT

Mark Eatherton

Technically speaking...

You will have traps between the risers serving the baseboards, and as Siggy has shown, code requires a low point drain... However, personally I wouldn't do it (waste of material and labor) because I have an air compressor that CAN clear those traps in a heart beat. The LOWEST point in the system WILL need a drain, but you already knew that :-)

Back to the humidity thing. Does it really get that high in the cellar? The manufacturer gives a range of humidity operating capability (non condensing).

If the appliance is going to be doing DHW, it will always be warm anyway, no?

Seems somewhat silly to conserve energy on one side and waste it on the other...

ME

Bob Gagnon plumbing and heating

Dehumidify

I would worry about the electronics in a basement with no cement floor. I have seen boilers with no pilot, in such situtations form rust on the jackets and controls, I am concerned that it could harm the expensive Mod-Con controls.
I have also seen motorcycles stored on dirt floors form rust when motorcycles stored on cement seen to have no problem.

Thanks, Bob Gagnon

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jp_2

5W christmass light

how about a 5w single christmas light or chandelier light. put in on a relay so it switches off when boiler switches on.

aren't most mod/cons somewhat air tight? air only comes in the combustion inlet? the triangle tubes seems to be that way.

Derheatmeister

Closet/ Garage Install?

Why not install it in a closet or garage upstairs? That may be better for service and equipment,How many zones,Sqft,Indirect waterheater?

don_205

rain

Rain as we call it.If the surface temps ever got below dewpoint then you would have to worry about it.

A better investment would be to lay some poly down on the crawl floor.

Bob Gagnon plumbing and heating

Poly would be good

Poly and cement would be better. Don't you store tools and other equipment down there? If the basement is moist mold would also be a concern.

Bob Gagnon

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Charlie from wmass

Are you using the boiler for domestic hot water? if so it will keep warm running the indirect. Poly and cement is better but running I think is best. For the drains I put them in. Drains work when air compressors do not. I had house to drain out during the ice storms and no power and half mile walk in to one of them . So dragging a gas power compressor was a no for me. drains worked out nice. I also install manual vents at the high spots saves a lot of time on late night calls when changing out a circulator or zone valve. Isolation valves are standard for all my installs too.