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AERO oil fired H2O Tank wont stay running

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jeff markov
jeff markov Member Posts: 4
in THE MAIN WALL
I have an Aero oil fired hot water tank that wont stay running. After demand(2 loads of laundry and a few showers), we find it doesnt turn back on. So, I started filter just after oil tank. New filter. Cleaned pump motor filter screen. Replaced CAD cell. Replaced Thermostat. Replaced Control box (timer set at 15 seconds). Still kicks off 15 seconds after breaker off, red reset button pushed and breaker on. Sometimes, it will run for a minute. My friend is HVAC, and is new in the business and is stumped. The only thing we didnt check is the pump oil pressure output. One thing to note, we are dealing with hard water and sediment...there is no softener and no sediment filter. I am due to replace the expansion tank with a sediment filter soon, but I want to get through this hot water tank issue, first. Any suggestions? Thanks!

PS We also cleaned the nozzle and wiped up any gunk so the CAD cell would work properly.

Comments

  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,113
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    vacume readings

    Sounds like you have a restrition in your oil lines you can either blow back your oil lines and then hand pump the line until you get clean oil if you want to check the line first using a vacume gauge connected to pump while operating to check how much vacume you are pulling .if you are not familar with servicing oil and don't have a blow gun,vacume gauge or hand pump then it may be wise to contact your oil provider and let them clear your oil lines and make sure your heater is operating safetly and properly other wise if there are any real promblems you will be in real trouble .peace and good luck clammy
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • jeff markov
    jeff markov Member Posts: 4
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    oil lines

    When we bled the line at the tank after changing the filter nearest the tank, we got a full steady stream of oil when we had the tank motor/pump running during the bleed. So, does that mean that the line is ok?
    Jeff
  • scrook_2
    scrook_2 Member Posts: 610
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    combustion test results?

    What do the combustion test numbers look like? CO2, smoke, draft? Is nozzle pressure right? Is there an oil line air leak at a fitting? Does it need a new nozzle?? Replacing stuff does no good if the burner's not set right
  • jeff markov
    jeff markov Member Posts: 4
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    A call is currently out to the local oil company. I will post a result and let you know what happened. Thanks
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
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    reset problem

    It could be anything. You should always replace the nozzle and not try to clean it. Does it have a solenoid oil valve? The resistor may need to be removed, and the wires cleaned and fused. It could be all that clammy says as well. Could be a pump coupling, weak transformer, bad electrodes, carbon on the endcone, and so on. Let us know. peace
  • Erich_3
    Erich_3 Member Posts: 135
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    Nozzle

    You need to find out what the correct nozzle is for this model and what nozzle is in place. You next need to replace the nozzle with a size and make that the manufacturer requires. You also need to set the electrode gaps correctly and do combustion readings.
  • scrook_2
    scrook_2 Member Posts: 610
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    Aero series I/O manual

    This may help:

    http://www.bradfordwhite.com/images/shared/pdfs/manuals/42458E.pdf

    Also, Beckett lists models CF32, CF50, CF70 w/ AFG as: 0.65x80B, 0.75x80B, & 0.85x80B respectively.
  • jeff markov
    jeff markov Member Posts: 4
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    Simply, the cad cell placement didnt see enough flame. The original positioning was under the nozzle, using a 90 degree bracket. It was parallel with the nozzle. The guy just bent it on a 45, so he said...I left momentarily...came back and it was running. It cycled correctly, as we used drain hose to cause it to turn back on. It fired up to thermostat preset at 125. We kicked it up to 130-135...it turned on, ran until shut down. We turned it back to 125 and that is it. Although parts were needlessly replaced, I learned a great deal on oil heaters. I will look into that manual for BW's. As for checking gas output in the stack....didnt do that...pressures and oil line plugging...didnt do that...I guess the problem was the CAD. The guy said that he has dealt with this kind of problem with the CAD not working due to placement...although it stumps me that if the factory sets it in there like that, why would it suddenly start to not work, or work intermittedly? I did put a new one in there, and used the original bracket and just slid the new cell in place. Probably the old cell was going bad and spotty? Thanks a lot for any further replies. You guys were great on your quick responses!! Jeff
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