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Raypak

Mark Eatherton
Mark Eatherton Member Posts: 5,858
Yup, been there, done that, had to repair a panel on a 3,500,000 btuH DHW heater in an occupied hotel while waiting for a replacement panel to come from factory.

But you've got worse problems than THAT crack. The one on the right hand side of the panel appears to be leaking CO into the room.

Looks like a dirty burn. You can order replacement panels, but why mess with it unless owners are indigent. Replace it with a good modcon boiler and reduce their fuel bills by a minimum of 30%.

ME

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Comments

  • Todd_44
    Todd_44 Member Posts: 1
    Raypak

    I found a crack today on this Raypac boiler. Has anyone ever seen these crack like this?
  • Todd_45
    Todd_45 Member Posts: 2
    Raypak

    Hello Mark. I measured 2PPM of CO at the boiler. My service manager said it was no big deal. He told me to seal the cracks with high temp silicone. This boiler was installed 10 years ago. I don't think it's worked right since day one. It's bumping the limit on every call for heat.
    amazer98
  • Henry
    Henry Member Posts: 998


    No go on the silicone! The refractory boards are easily replaced. You can order directly from Raypak or order some boards from your local supplier. You can easily cut the board to the same specs as the original. We see this type of cracks on boilers with blocked heat exchangers. We sandblast the heat exchanger and replace the boards.

    SOme time later this week, I will post some pictures.
  • Todd_45
    Todd_45 Member Posts: 2


    Henry. Can you elaborate on the sandblasting?
  • I have one

    S/F Caravan GHX 300(out of 3)=900MBH(steam CI), that the refractory is cracked the same.
    I`ll get pics tomorrow also. If your interested.

    Dave
  • Steve M_2
    Steve M_2 Member Posts: 121
    Clogged Heat exchanger

    I don't know about sandblasting the heat exchanger but its pretty easy to clean them in place. Just remove the vent connector, the diverter and the top of the boilers steel enclosure to access the heat exchanger from the top. Remove the burners and refractory panels. I then hose out the exchanger so I don't have to breathe the dust, sometimes I need to use RYDLYME in really bad cases. Reassemble and replace the cracked refractory piece and you're finished.

    I'm not a big fan of Raypac boilers with the built in bypass. It's only 1/2 and doesn't help with the cool return temps that cool the flue gases and causes the condensate that cloggs the exchanger. Your best bet is to repipe it with primary/secondary to give it partial boiler protection. Your better bet would be to replace it if you have to go through all of that, IMHO
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